What did you do to your bike today?

[Simon Davey]

10 minutes ago, smallfrowne said:

They've repaved all the roads round me, it's hard work finding a crap bit to test on, what a bother. 

 

You'll have to go for a longer ride to find some rough surface.

[smallfrowne]

8 minutes ago, Simon Davey said:

 

You'll have to go for a longer ride to find some rough surface.

Yes I will, not back to the lakes though!

[RideWithStyles]

55 minutes ago, smallfrowne said:

Nothing's ever easy. 

 

The green machine has been through it's rigorous roadworthiness test now so I've ordered the service stuff, except plugs and air filter. Everything looks a doddle on a naked, I err hope. 

 

The previous owner put ktech front and back on it but I've had the ktech shock in for a service, at a setup down Rotherham. I wasn't very impressed with its riding characteristics - it was bucking right up over rough stuff, except at fully wound in on the rebound - which you aren't meant to do. Proper bouncing. I've put the original shock on it for now, which is better but I've got to go back and collect the ktech one, didn't take long. They've said they didn't really see anything wrong with it, but we'll see. I'll refit it and retest, see if I go flying off again. They've repaved all the roads round me, it's hard work finding a crap bit to test on, what a bother. 

As long as the valve is not close shut to get the control you want is ok but if its actually just been serviced and your at 1/8-1/4 out now with it still crap, its gonna be useless in 6 months/1-3thousand miles plus it will eat the tyre quicker so you’ll be paying more than twice for a shite job / base set up.

If it is like that now send it back and tell them to do a better job, thicker oil or change the valve stack.

another thing to check is if they have done two other things: if your using all the travel and the pre is near the bottom/wound in the spring is soft for your needs so they preload the crap out of it and your fighting the spring at a less progressive area but still lack valve control mentioned previously or the other way of too strong and lack preload so its at the top too much fighting a too strong set up…just for thought.

[Simon Davey]

Wound my remote on my rear shock in tighter. It was actually finger loose and I was bouncing around like a bouncy thing.

Went for a spin, a few miles with 20Kg of rat bait in the panniers (as one does) and then 1/2 hour of roundabouts and straight roads without the weight.

It's still quite twitchy on the corners, can't find my darn tyre pressure gauge.

[skyrider]

took the serow in for it's mot this morning , and no problem there and then off to the post office for it's road tax 

[Nick the wanderer]

14 hours ago, skyrider said:

took the serow in for it's mot this morning , and no problem there and then off to the post office for it's road tax 

Never sure whether people are joking or not when they go to the post office to tax their vehicles.

It's so much easier online.

[Fiddlesticks]

33 minutes ago, Nick the wanderer said:

Never sure whether people are joking or not when they go to the post office to tax their vehicles.

It's so much easier online.

 

Just done mine.

 

The thing that gets me is at the end it says "what did you think of this service?"

 

I think I'd like to take my business elsewhere!

[smallfrowne]

Yes I normally do mine as soon as they tick the job off at the MOT place before I ride off. Technically I think you are meant to go straight home after the test then walk to the posty for the tax, or get the bus. Ha. As if. 

[smallfrowne]

On 31/07/2024 at 15:26, RideWithStyles said:

As long as the valve is not close shut to get the control you want is ok but if its actually just been serviced and your at 1/8-1/4 ....

I'm going to pick it up tomorrow from them and fit it back this weekend hopefully. But yes it was previously wound in all the way to get some control. Unsure how many miles it'd done but the bike had 5,800 miles on it when I got it. We'll see. The stock one seemed fine on that trip to the lakes to be honest, but it's a bit shocking if the ktech isn't better. 

[smallfrowne]

23 hours ago, Simon Davey said:

Wound my remote on my rear shock in tighter. It was actually finger loose and I was bouncing around like a bouncy thing.

Went for a spin, a few miles with 20Kg of rat bait in the panniers (as one does) and then 1/2 hour of roundabouts and straight roads without the weight.

It's still quite twitchy on the corners, can't find my darn tyre pressure gauge.

It's worth setting up your preload height. Not a bad job if it's easy to get to and you have a helper. I do sometimes have a helper, other times I have to set up my phone taking a video, recording the tape measure which is attached at the rear seat somewhere and left dangling over the rear axle. 

[Simon Davey]

14 minutes ago, smallfrowne said:

It's worth setting up your preload height. Not a bad job if it's easy to get to and you have a helper. I do sometimes have a helper, other times I have to set up my phone taking a video, recording the tape measure which is attached at the rear seat somewhere and left dangling over the rear axle. 

 

Cheers, I actually had a look at the user manual last night, I'll check the rebound too. 

The bike is setup as standard for a 68kg rider, I'm 95, so the standard settings make for a good guide. 

[RideWithStyles]

Im happy to use manuals and are great but be warned when referring to them about suspension settings, a lot of them assume one thing or another, it doesn’t take into account for things like usage, weights, temps or wear (oil, gas and bushes, bearing) people preferring.

the old triumph Daytona wasn’t too bad in its regard to some information but also read in the later versions of that bike were in my view dangerous and damn right wrong, the book says “the user is not to adjust the pre load under any circumstances”. So sorry fatty/fast/skinny/slow person you just have to put up with an ill handling bike we think an average nobody is and now a higher risk of crashing….well done triumph manual lawyers.

[bonio]

7 hours ago, smallfrowne said:

Yes I normally do mine as soon as they tick the job off at the MOT place before I ride off. Technically I think you are meant to go straight home after the test then walk to the posty for the tax, or get the bus. Ha. As if. 

I try and get MOT and tax to fall at different times of the year. I'll buy 6 months tax if necessary. Just makes life easier.

[fredc]

20 hours ago, bonio said:

I try and get MOT and tax to fall at different times of the year. I'll buy 6 months tax if necessary. Just makes life easier.

I do the same

[Pie man]

Rode it for the first time since fitting the Conti Trail Attacks. What a difference. The Avon's weren't bad but I did have a speed wobble at certain speeds with the Avon's. No such issue with the new rubber, grippy too. So far, pleased with them, will be even more pleased if I can get at least 7K out of them. 

[Tinkicker]

Fitted the new Electrex reg rec this afternoon.  The original connectors and block were showing no sign of overheating, but I cut it off and fitted the heavy duty one supplied by Electrex, crimping and then soldering the terminals as per Electrex recommendations.  Main failure mode for these reg recs are crimps coming loose and the wires overheating.

Liberally smeared with Arctic MX4 thermal paste twixt frame and rear heat sink plate before bolting up.  Should keep it a few degrees cooller.

Regulated voltage lights on at 3500 rpm 14.65v.

Lights off, 14.85v.

 

Of course, I have the original living under the seat, along with the allen key to remove the side cowl. Just in case...  You know how my luck goes.....

 

As an aside, to save you a bob or two, you know I am well aquainted with finding obsolete bits n bobs, ferriting about in the obscure bowels of the internet armed with part numbers...

 

Electrex VFR750 reg rec.  Electrex part number RR58. Honda part number 31600MY7305 Cost £92.

 

Electrex CB500 reg rec.  Electrex part number RR58. Honda part number 31600MY7305 Cost £60

 

Same reg rec fitted to dozens of Honda models....

Edited August 3, 2024 by Tinkicker

[Simon Davey]

Rear brake pads... 

 

"Hmmmm, that rear brake has never felt very good, I'll just try it without the front brake"..... 

 

So after a close call at a roundabout where my rear brake did nothing, I ordered pads, and tonight I thought I'd just swap them out. 

Nope, not a fecking chance. 

The whole caliper is seized, can't even get the slider pins out. Once off the bike, I actually had one of the pistons falling out! 

So a kit including pistons should arrive midweek. 

[Bianco2564]

Continued with the engine clean up. Pleased to find all the specks of dirt on top of the engine are actually just chain grease, this all just easily wipes off.

Removed the power valves for a decoke and looking at getting the PV pulleys and brackets replated.

 

[Nick the wanderer]

11 hours ago, Simon Davey said:

Rear brake pads... 

 

"Hmmmm, that rear brake has never felt very good, I'll just try it without the front brake"..... 

 

So after a close call at a roundabout where my rear brake did nothing, I ordered pads, and tonight I thought I'd just swap them out. 

Nope, not a fecking chance. 

The whole caliper is seized, can't even get the slider pins out. Once off the bike, I actually had one of the pistons falling out! 

So a kit including pistons should arrive midweek. 

Sintered pads give you more bite. More wear of the disc but a price worth paying.

How the hell did it pass an MOT?

[husoi]

After several painful months and an undisclosed 000s amount bike is finally ready for MOT and to be back on the road.

Works done:

New brake disks and pads

New rear MC

Rebuild kits for all 3 calipers

Cleaning front MC and slave mc

Thoroughly applied ACF50

Removed corrosion from several parts

Spray with cold zinc and black paint

Nickel plating for the side stand

New set of fairing bolts and clips

New brake fluid (2 bottles)

 

Bitch is more expensive than the ex

[Simon Davey]

2 hours ago, Nick the wanderer said:

Sintered pads give you more bite. More wear of the disc but a price worth paying.

How the hell did it pass an MOT?

 

Putting these in there Kawasaki ZZR 1200 ZX1200C1H 2002 Rear Sintered Disc Brake Pads | eBay

 

It passed the MOT unsurprisingly with the guys I bought it from. Who happen to be the same guys that sent me on my way when I collected it with 18PSI in the tyres on a freezing -1 evening in December.

I have no excuses for not checking these things, but I've barely ridden the darned thing, and I'm still getting used to it. I do have some regret in buying it. However, if it hadn't been so cheap (£1500), I wouldn't have a bike at all.

Edited August 4, 2024 by Simon Davey

[Simon Davey]

2 hours ago, husoi said:

After several painful months and an undisclosed 000s amount bike is finally ready for MOT and to be back on the road.

Works done:

New brake disks and pads

New rear MC

Rebuild kits for all 3 calipers

Cleaning front MC and slave mc

Thoroughly applied ACF50

Removed corrosion from several parts

Spray with cold zinc and black paint

Nickel plating for the side stand

New set of fairing bolts and clips

New brake fluid (2 bottles)

 

Bitch is more expensive than the ex

 

 

Excellent stuff, you'll soon be cruising alongside those lochs and glens.

[husoi]

More like touring Lisbon

Back to Croatia or another place like that

[Mickly]

Gave it a proper wash & polish

Scrubbed up quite well for a 9yo bike with 20k on the clock

[RideWithStyles]

13 hours ago, Nick the wanderer said:

Sintered pads give you more bite. More wear of the disc but a price worth paying.

How the hell did it pass an MOT?

Fluid and seals in the caliper and mc are the primary concern. Then pass and discs. 
remember motz are done cold.