fastbob Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 11 minutes ago, Bender said: It's not supposed to. Exactly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 So following @fastbob ‘s advice, I’ve reduced the size of the beads of blue Hylomar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 Liners fitted - gently tapped in place with a rubber mallet. Thats it for a week or so as we’re off down to Newquay on holibobs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Mickly said: Liners fitted - gently tapped in place with a rubber mallet. Thats it for a week or so as we’re off down to Newquay on holibobs So how much blue Hylomar has oozed out , if any ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 52 minutes ago, fastbob said: So how much blue Hylomar has oozed out , if any ? None oozed out at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy sugger Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 5 hours ago, Mickly said: Liners fitted - gently tapped in place with a rubber mallet. Thats it for a week or so as we’re off down to Newquay on holibobs What make of bike is a holibob? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 Had a spare hour or so .. Cleaned up the mating faces if the crankcase & block, then new dowels fitted to the crankcase New head gasket fitted ( isn’t it a thing of beauty? ) Odd spacers that I had to cut in half and butt up against the cylinder head gasket at the front of the engine. They fit here Headbolts hand tightened And OH BOLLOX!! I need 10 and only order 8 what a f’kin numpty. In my very weak defence, the World of Triumph site says 8 required for my bike. Stiil I took 10 out, so should have known !! So that really does stop play until I get some new ones delivered. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 You can see how easy a mistake that is to make. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 So the extra 2 bolts were delivered while we were away. Tightening up in the order specified in the Haynes manual 1st stage is torque to 20Nm 2nd stage is torque to 27Nm 3rd stage is a 90° turn - I’ve never had to do this before so I’ve bought a gauge and watched some YouTube tutorials on how to use it: The long bolt in the cam cap hole only stops the dial moving by holding the lever attached to the gauge so isn’t under any strain & now the gauge hand moves as you tighten - 1st one done, but I am finding it very difficult to hold the engine on the bench while ensuring the Torx drive stays vertical and doesn’t cam out while applying the required turning force using a breaker bar, I may have enlist a mate to hold the engine. I know some on here will say it’s all a faff & I should just go by feel, but experience and many stripped threads & broken bolts show that in this respect I definitely do not have ‘the touch’ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 Managed to tuck the engine under my arm to steady it & all bolts now tightened as required. Each bolt has a dab of paint when tightened in case I was called away for a domestic emergency Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 Now I’m a bit concerned does this gap between block & head look right? this is the other side. Worried now that it’s not seated correctly & I’ll have to take it off again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Tip :No need for an angle gauge Hex head has 6 points Torx head has 6 points Total revolution =360° Each point =60° So mark one point and then mark finishing point location ( ie 120° count 2 points 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 1 minute ago, TimR said: Tip :No need for an angle gauge Hex head has 6 points Torx head has 6 points Total revolution =360° Each point =60° So mark one point and then mark finishing point location ( ie 120° count 2 points So the required 90° would be 1.5 points Oh we’ll I’ve got the gauge so may as well us it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 8 minutes ago, Mickly said: Now I’m a bit concerned does this gap between block & head look right? this is the other side. Worried now that it’s not seated correctly & I’ll have to take it off again. Look at previous photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 This is my ( well the wifes) triumph meccano set Have never seen a big end that hammered and not spun round ! Even on competition engines 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 On 18/11/2020 at 16:00, Mickly said: So, the cylinder liners are supposed to just pull out by hand yeah, right!! any ideas on how to get them off without damaging them or the pistons? Bit late but https://www.toolstation.com/nylon-drain-plug/p20648 ( find suitable size) coupled with a slide hammer can be a godsend ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy sugger Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Mickly said: Now I’m a bit concerned does this gap between block & head look right? this is the other side. Worried now that it’s not seated correctly & I’ll have to take it off again. Have you tried to slide a feeler gauge in between gasket and head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 6 minutes ago, billy sugger said: Have you tried to slide a feeler gauge in between gasket and head? I will give it a go tomorrow. I’ll also pop the plugs in and see how the compression is ( hand cranked ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 4 hours ago, Mickly said: Now I’m a bit concerned does this gap between block & head look right? this is the other side. Worried now that it’s not seated correctly & I’ll have to take it off again. I hate to say it but I'd be worried too . I've never built a modern Triumph but that doesn't look right to me . Are those liners fully seated ? They're not resting on a bed of Hylomar are they ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Hard to tell on a phone screen but isn't the "gap" just the edge of the headgasket? A shiny new HG does show up when looked at closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Having slept on it, I decided to take off the head. All the liners were level with the top of the engine cases, no gaps at all, should they be slightly lower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickly Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) And on closer inspection it seems @fastbob was quite correct ( did anyone ever have any doubt? ) The liners will have to be removed again so excess Hylomar can be removed before it blocks the coolant ways. Edited November 3, 2021 by Mickly Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy sugger Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Mickly said: And on closer inspection it seems @fastbob was quite correct ( did anyone ever have any doubt? ) The liners will have to be removed again so excess Hylomar can be removed before it blocks the coolant ways. Can you not use a large syringe and a it of tubing and suck the excess up? Hylomar never really sets, so becomes a gel like substance so should be pliable enough. If you need one I have a 60ml spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Mickly said: Having slept on it, I decided to take off the head. All the liners were level with the top of the engine cases, no gaps at all, should they be slightly lower? That would depend on the design of the head gasket . If the ring portions of the gasket that seal the combustion chambers are thicker than the outer section then maybe the liners are supposed to be lower than the casing . Unfortunately , this is all conjecture because although I've worked on a few water cooled engines , I've not had my hands on one where the liners are directly surrounded by coolant . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 The other thing to mention is that are the bolts stretch bolts? If so then you'll need new ones when re-assembling. They are one use only. That's particularly so with the bolts used these days when the final tightening is by degrees rather than torque. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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