Clutch wear

[Keeper96]

Hi all, 

 

I’ve been suffering with a slipping clutch so tonight I’ve pulled the plates out to measure them and discovered this wear to the clutch hub? If that’s the wrong term then please correct me! 
 

is this acceptable or does it also require replacement? 
 

Also upon measuring the friction plates they are apparently the same thickness as new plates but to me they look heavily worn? 
 

a second opinion is appreciated as trains don’t have clutches so I have limited experience of this. I imagine that the raised “pads” should be much more prominent than this? 
 

Thanks 

 

 

[smallfrowne]

Ooh nice notches in yer clutch basket. Don't really want those.

 

The pads are raised from new but not by much. 

[smallfrowne]

Previous response maybe not much help but the notches will stop the plates from sliding nice ways, so when it gets bad it causes a sticky clutch I suppose. But I've never seen how bad it needs to be to become an issue so I'm still not much help.

Buuut if the plates are in spec despite looking worn and the basket has notches like that then perhaps that's the problem and not the plates themselves.

 

Sometimes they aren't that expensive at least.

 

[iangaryprice]

The notches in the clutch basket look really bad to me, particularly the center where the metal plates locate.

I have seen ones with marks where the plates touch but never actual indents like that. These notches can prevent the plates moving easily which then allows the plates to seperate to prevent clutch drag. Try cleaning the faces up with a file, if you need to remove a lot of metal, then a replacement centre may be required.

 

The outer is not too bad where the friction plates locate. I would expect that can be cleaned up with a file/abrasive.

 

Its difficult to tell how badly worn the friction plates are from the photos. You really need to measure the thickness with a micrometer /vernier. You will need the specifcation for the thickness (new and wear limit).

[fastbob]

That is a very badly notched clutch basket . I've seen an outer basket almost as bad as that but never an inner basket like that . Have you been drag racing or pulling wheelies or something ?  Chuck it away and get a whole new clutch . 

[Keeper96]

58 minutes ago, fastbob said:

That is a very badly notched clutch basket . I've seen an outer basket almost as bad as that but never an inner basket like that . Have you been drag racing or pulling wheelies or something ?  Chuck it away and get a whole new clutch . 

I’ve only had the bike 4 months and it’s got a mismatched engine (‘99 bike, ‘88-‘91 engine) so god knows what it’s been through in the past 22 years... 

[linuxrob]

A lot of slipping clutches are badly adjusted, especially Kawasaki worm gear type actuators. If friction plates AND springs are in spec then problem may have been adjustment. Careful when holding clutch basket to get nut off and take note of where all the engagement part are to aid reassembly. On the Bandit you can bugger things up if they are not aligned correctly before tightening the nut.

 

That inner does look horrendous.  and abused.

 

love the train reference, i used to work at Thornaby TMD 80's - 90's

[Stu]

19 hours ago, linuxrob said:

especially Kawasaki worm gear type actuators

 

And Suzuki ones too! 

 

I have seen baskets as bad as that before and they have been filed down and worked fine afterwards! not for me though I would be looking at replacing to be honest 

[Gerontious]

It’s going to be interesting when the clutches (plural)  need doing on my bike. Should I start saving?

[James in Brum]

Hi gang, 

mad a part of my learning. When you are saying about the wear on the clutch basket do you mean where I have circled?

thise grooves/notches?

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

Those bits you have circled should be smooth. The plates need to glide along those so any notches will cause them to stick. 

 

I'd replace the lot, at least you'll know where you stand then. 

[Keeper96]

29 minutes ago, James in Brum said:

Hi gang, 

mad a part of my learning. When you are saying about the wear on the clutch basket do you mean where I have circled?

thise grooves/notches?

Hi James, yeah that’s the bits we’re talking about. 

the photos actually make them look a lot more pronounced than they are. 

 

I pulled the basket out yesterday and took it with me when I went to order my clutch plates from M+S in Newcastle for a professional opinion and their fitter said it would be okay and to just carefully file the little raised edges off the external face of the hub. 
 

if I could find a new one I would have replaced the lot but I’ve only been able to find second hand so I’ll probably end up with something not much better than this 

Edited March 11, 2021 by Keeper96

[James in Brum]

Thanks Keeper  

[Keeper96]

New clutch fitted! 
 

after getting told the old hub was fine I then snapped one of the castings off for the spring bolts by standing on it  

 

managed to find one on eBay for £10 in better condition than mine though! 
 

New EBC friction plates and genuine Suzuki springs and steel plates sourced for £130 and fitted this evening. 
 

Changed the oil and filter just as a precaution and got the cable adjusted much easier than previous times. 
 

take care everyone 

[geofferz]

So much science in this thread

[TimR]

Hope you soaked the friction plates in oil ?  As looks dry in your pic

[Keeper96]

5 hours ago, TimR said:

Hope you soaked the friction plates in oil ?  As looks dry in your pic

No? I’d never heard that before? 
 

[Bender]

32 minutes ago, Keeper96 said:

No? I’d never heard that before? 
 

Just coat them before they go in, they ain't really absorbent. 

[Keeper96]

55 minutes ago, Bender said:

Just coat them before they go in, they ain't really absorbent. 

Makes sense, so with them sitting in oil in the sump/crankcase all will be okay? 

[Bender]

13 minutes ago, Keeper96 said:

Makes sense, so with them sitting in oil in the sump/crankcase all will be okay? 

You will soon find out   

Won't take them long to become coated.

[TimR]

Motorcycles are designed to be a wet clutch .

This stops them wearing/burning out quickly .

 

They only partially sit in oil as crankcase is only filled by about a third .

 

I would personally take a bit of time before starting to manually turn the bike over to make sure the clutch is fully coated and allow it to rest in that position for a while ( an hour minimum) but this is my opinion.

[TimR]

2 hours ago, Keeper96 said:

No? I’d never heard that before? 
 

I would read the information that came with the friction plates

 

https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/Brands/STDHD-CORK-CK-Clutch-Kit

 

Edited March 21, 2021 by TimR

[Bender]

As they are already fitted (presumably)  following instructions is a bit late.

[Keeper96]

Fitted last night, ran on the centre stand to test function then took it out today, it all seems okay so hopefully I’ve been lucky! 

[fastbob]

3 hours ago, Keeper96 said:

Makes sense, so with them sitting in oil in the sump/crankcase all will be okay? 

 They are not really sitting in oil . The oil is in the sump which is below the clutch . That's why you can swap out the clutch on a lot of bikes without draining the oil just by leaning them over a little bit more than normal . I suppose with the bike upright there should be enough splash to get some oil into the clutch pack . I'd probably try running the engine in gear with the clutch pulled in for a while to separate the plates . 

Edited March 21, 2021 by fastbob