Triumph Trophy Engine Strip

[skyrider]

57 minutes ago, Mickly said:

Thanks for the tip, reckon I’ll do the same.

Also, as the rad has been ‘borrowed’ from domestic management I might throw a cloth over it to prevent any paint getting on it.

yes just look at that overspray 

[linuxrob]

2 hours ago, fastbob said:

Looks like it's too late to me . 

Yep luckily this is a council tip special.

[Mickly]

Time to resurrect this thread:

so I have slowly got the money / parts together to commence the build …. Well, not all the parts, as the piston ring sets are out of stock & won’t be available until 1st October, but I have paid for them ( or at least will when the credit card bill arrives ).

I had to order the head gasket set from the USA, it has arrived and consists of 1 Head gasket, 1 Cam cover gasket, one timing cover gasket & this set of other bits:

There are 4 exhaust header gaskets, 10 Cam cover fixing seals 3 spark plug seals ( there’s one incorporated into the cam cover seal ), 1 cam chain tensioner gasket, 2 small & 2 larger copper washers ( I’m sure their fitment will become clear later on )

Now here’s the weird bit: 27 valve oil seals … wtf would there be 27?? Only 16 required so 11 left over & they’re about £10 each from Triumph - wasn’t gonna change these as there was no evidence of smoke, but as I’ve now got them, I might as well …. I mean, how hard can it be?

There is also 3 Oval spacers that are a mystery but 3 horseshoe shaped ones missing - maybe I’m supposed to cut them in half? - @onesea, would you be kind enough to ask around?

 

So here we go removing all the valves again while trying not to damage the new paint on the head

[fastbob]

So buy five more valve stem seals and flog them on eBay for a profit .

[Mickly]

10 minutes ago, fastbob said:

So buy five more valve stem seals and flog them on eBay for a profit .

That’s the plan

[Mickly]

One valve out - again !!

Now how to get the seal out?

[Mickly]

Long nosed pliers did the trick.

New seal with a smear of assembly lube then inserted using an 8mm socket

 

Edited September 7, 2021 by Mickly
Added pic

[Mickly]

Here’s a tip ….

Dont wipe assembly lube off your hand onto your T-shirt and then use said T-shirt to clean your glasses

[rightstuff]

been their done that still do it never learn 

[fastbob]

I can't remember , did you have rebores done ? If so ,  who's really good in Coventry ? 

[Mickly]

8 minutes ago, fastbob said:

I can't remember , did you have rebores done ? If so ,  who's really good in Coventry ? 

I had the liners honed, these guys did it 

https://coventryclassicengines.co.uk/

Recommended  by the guy who runs NWC motors - said he gets all this engine machining done there, good job at. Reasonable price.

Having the Trophy head skimmed, valve seats re-cut, checked, reassembled & cleaned, plus honing the liners was £200

[onesea]

On 07/09/2021 at 10:34, Mickly said:

Time to resurrect this thread:

so I have slowly got the money / parts together to commence the build …. Well, not all the parts, as the piston ring sets are out of stock & won’t be available until 1st October, but I have paid for them ( or at least will when the credit card bill arrives ).

I had to order the head gasket set from the USA, it has arrived and consists of 1 Head gasket, 1 Cam cover gasket, one timing cover gasket & this set of other bits:

There are 4 exhaust header gaskets, 10 Cam cover fixing seals 3 spark plug seals ( there’s one incorporated into the cam cover seal ), 1 cam chain tensioner gasket, 2 small & 2 larger copper washers ( I’m sure their fitment will become clear later on )

Now here’s the weird bit: 27 valve oil seals … wtf would there be 27?? Only 16 required so 11 left over & they’re about £10 each from Triumph - wasn’t gonna change these as there was no evidence of smoke, but as I’ve now got them, I might as well …. I mean, how hard can it be?

There is also 3 Oval spacers that are a mystery but 3 horseshoe shaped ones missing - maybe I’m supposed to cut them in half? - @onesea, would you be kind enough to ask around?

 

So here we go removing all the valves again while trying not to damage the new paint on the head

Apparently the oval ones replace the horse shoe ones.  They stay in better when you replace the head...

[Mickly]

So it transpired that taking out the valve collets is massively easier than replacing them.

Getting them out with a pick & a magnet was easy, getting them back in is not the same.

The slots in the old spark plug socket needed widening & lengthening considerably & a washer welding into the end to provide stability & help it act vertically against spring without slipping.

Here it is loosely bolted in to stop it dropping out but still allowing some wriggle room.

Also note the piece of tube over the handle as there’s not much mechanical advantage, especially when it goes over centre.

 

The collets we’re added by using a blob of grease on the end of a screwdriver 

Another tip is : While storing the collets on a magnetic tray to stop them firing off across the garage may seem a sensible idea - it also means they themselves become magnetic & then stick to anything the come in contact with …. Except the valve stem !!

Tried bloody tweezers - get it wrong and the collets will spring off to the darkest corners of your garage.

Here’s it all done with buckets & shims in place.

Here’s another tip - use a marker pen to show the ones you’ve done, especially if you keep getting called away to ‘other’ stuff !!

 

That’s it for now until the piston rings turn up.

[Mr Fro]

Turd of a job isn't it.

 

You can get ones that bolt on the top of the head which I imagine are fantastic. Well, better than the thing you (and I) have.

[Mickly]

Set out all the bits ready to assemble pistons & Liners to the engine.

Oh … Best stop this tomfoolery immediately

Shiney piston with grooves & oil holes cleaned out

Top liner face dressed with 1200 grit wet & dry to ensure there’s no tracks across the face.

Liner to block mating face cleaned of all detritus.

 

Now to measure the piston ring end gaps of the new pistons … but probably about to be called away for another domestic ‘emergency’

[billy sugger]

Looking good so far. When ready to do so double check the shim gaps/measurements. I'm sure someone will be along to correct me, but if the gap is too small the rocker can hold a valve open slightly, and the gap increases as the engine warms up, and this can cause reduced compression

[Mickly]

36 minutes ago, billy sugger said:

Looking good so far. When ready to do so double check the shim gaps/measurements. I'm sure someone will be along to correct me, but if the gap is too small the rocker can hold a valve open slightly, and the gap increases as the engine warms up, and this can cause reduced compression

Absolutely, especially as the valve seats have been recut.

[Mickly]

Right, post COVID but still feeling grotty I’ve measured the installed end gaps of the new piston rings ( all good ) & fitted them to the pistons, ensuring they are the correct way up & the gaps on the correct orientation.

e.g.

Next up will be fitting them to con rods & then fitting the liners.

[Mickly]

So take off the masking tape without buggering up the paint at the edges.

 

Liner mating faces inside of crankcase cleaned up

Assembly lube smeared on gudgeon pin, cloth stuffed into crankcase to prevent errant circlips pinging off in to oblivion.

1st piston fitted - circlips are a pain as they are just plain hoops without anyway of gripping them to compress !!

All 4 fitted - not a quick job !!

 

Liners with bead of Blue Hylomar on mating faces left to cure.

 

Maybe fit the liners tomorrow.

[fastbob]

3 minutes ago, Mickly said:

So take off the masking tape without buggering up the paint at the edges.

 

Liner mating faces inside of crankcase cleaned up

Assembly lube smeared on gudgeon pin, cloth stuffed into crankcase to prevent errant circlips pinging off in to oblivion.

1st piston fitted - circlips are a pain as they are just plain hoops without anyway of gripping them to compress !!

All 4 fitted - not a quick job !!

 

Liners with bead of Blue Hylomar on mating faces left to cure.

 

Maybe fit the liners tomorrow.

That's some bead . Be careful they don't hydo lock . 

[Mickly]

8 minutes ago, fastbob said:

That's some bead . Be careful they don't hydo lock . 

You reckon I’ve over done it? 
Haynes manual doesn’t say how big a bead to use.

[fastbob]

2 hours ago, Mickly said:

You reckon I’ve over done it? 
Haynes manual doesn’t say how big a bead to use.

My understanding of a bead is like a 3-4 mm "String "  straight out of the nozzle . 

[Mickly]

10 minutes ago, fastbob said:

My understanding of a bead is like a 3-4 mm "String "  straight out of the nozzle . 

Thanks, it did say “smooth it off”, maybe it’s squished out as I smoothed it out.

I’ll try & take some off tomorrow ( can you do that once it’s cured? ) or do I need to start over?

Always ready to take advice from someone who’s already got the T-shirt

[fastbob]

1 hour ago, Mickly said:

Thanks, it did say “smooth it off”, maybe it’s squished out as I smoothed it out.

I’ll try & take some off tomorrow ( can you do that once it’s cured? ) or do I need to start over?

Always ready to take advice from someone who’s already got the T-shirt

Does this stuff ever cure ? 

[Bender]

15 minutes ago, fastbob said:

Does this stuff ever cure ? 

It's not supposed to.