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Posted
12 hours ago, jedibiker said:

Are they better than stainless?

Stainless steel nuts and bolts have there own problems. 

Crevice corrosion,

Galvionic corrosion,

It's slippery so easy to vibrate un done,

It's hard so brittle,

 

Not my choice on bikes..

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, onesea said:

Stainless steel nuts and bolts have there own problems. 

Crevice corrosion,

Galvionic corrosion,

It's slippery so easy to vibrate un done,

It's hard so brittle,

 

Not my choice on bikes..

Ok, trying to find them now. Most searches just show stainless.

Posted
1 minute ago, jedibiker said:

I need manifold bolts etc mate, thats a nut?

 

Thought you had studs in already! 

 

If they are bolts now then I would remove them and put stainless studs in then use brass nuts you would then never have any issues 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Stu said:

 

Thought you had studs in already! 

 

If they are bolts now then I would remove them and put stainless studs in then use brass nuts you would then never have any issues 

i think il need to get one out, looking on fowlers its just a bolt, but on a fz1000 they use similiar hex head studs to my bandit. nightmare lol

 

i thought they would be like the photo (fazer 1000)

although mine are not this style head

Screenshot 2021-01-31 at 11.31.30.png

Posted

As I say if they are bolts then I would replace all with a stud then brass nuts 

 

You don't have to use specific studs you can make them out of threaded bar or stainless bolts you may already have and cut the head off and file the edges 

 

The idea being that in the future the studs will always stay put and the nuts would come off easier and they are also easier to break off if they seize 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Ian Frog said:

They work well @Stu I have them on the ZRX and the Busa !

Cheers

Ian

 

Thats good to know

 

I usually just use a couple of nuts locked together to wind them in 

Posted

I always used the 2 nut method till I got the studs with the allen headed hole, in fact the first time I didn`t realise they had the thing lol fitted 2 studs before I twigged.

Not sure if they would be easy to remove that way but I did liberally coat with Copaslip as I always do.

Cheers

Ian

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Stu said:

As I say if they are bolts then I would replace all with a stud then brass nuts 

 

You don't have to use specific studs you can make them out of threaded bar or stainless bolts you may already have and cut the head off and file the edges 

 

The idea being that in the future the studs will always stay put and the nuts would come off easier and they are also easier to break off if they seize 

I get you now sorry, yes the nut needs to be brass, was looking for the lot in brass. lol

  • Like 1
Posted

I hope you get the studs out, if you struggle and want me to post my tried and tested method using a welder (mig preferably)

I will, John.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, jedibiker said:

Will the crush gasket required be the same as standard? with it being aftermarket.

Yes as the head is standard and the new pipe is made to suit the head.

Cheers

Ian

  • Like 2
Posted
13 hours ago, WD-40 said:

What's in it is M6 studs and nuts. That is part of the reason they snap. They should have used M8.

 

Studs No.7

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181541/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/cylinder-head?noredir=1

 

Nuts No.5

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181552/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/exhaust?noredir=1

 

 

There only 6mm, jesus. pretty poor.

 

@fifthwheel cheers il let you know

Posted

Managed to work off the left side bolt easy, so now I know it is a bolt, although odd looking like a cap.

Tried a middle pipe bolt and it snapped with hardly any force. But, it looks like even if they snap, i can then get something onto the stud and get them out. Mole grips or weld as said above.  Bit of progress I guess.

20210201_143528.jpg

20210201_143537.jpg

20210201_144207.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, jedibiker said:

Managed to work off the left side bolt easy, so now I know it is a bolt, although odd looking like a cap.

Tried a middle pipe bolt and it snapped with hardly any force. But, it looks like even if they snap, i can then get something onto the stud and get them out. Mole grips or weld as said above.  Bit of progress I guess.

20210201_143528.jpg

20210201_143537.jpg

20210201_144207.jpg

look for stud extractors on fleabay

Posted

If your ok with welding, get a nut to fit over stud and weld it on, heat stud and nut a few times and see if you can rock it back and forth to get it moving.

  • Like 2
Posted

Did you follow @skyrider advice and soak them in PlusGas. Having dismantled several 1970's cars I know it is good at freeing seized nuts and bolts. On the few occasions it didn't work first time I used a second dose followed by a squirt of WD40. The WD40 being a dispersant helps drive the PlusGas into the seized joint. I only ever had one time that didn't work.

 

As @Bender says, don't just move the nut in one direction, very small amounts of movement either way will loosen better. 

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