husoi

Yu could name it fluffy

A garage or a shed would do the trick more efficiently.

Depends. Setting out for a trip the bike goes on centre stand and filled up completely. Arriving home just on the side stand. When touring centre stand but not completely full. Will stop before the tank goes empty, no much point spending precious time dripping petrol to get an extra mile.

Welcome to the forum. Hope your project works well

Finish led fitting new headlights

I use a tripod for my phone. Costs about a tenner and does the trick perfectly

Ultimate drill https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3LA9_mgkPN/?igsh=dTc3NTUzYzV0a256

A new visor. Not worth all the kerfuffle of spending 2hrs polishing when you will get a new one for £30

Fitting my new rear pads on my car. Hopefully will have the new headlight to be fitted on the shadow. together with the new shell

Now imagine you were in Scotland. subzero with frost all around you. Rain forecast for today (as every day) and 30mph is a breeze around here...

Not the first time the friction bit of the lever gets worn enough to start to give problems. A good inspection of both the lever and the end bit of the MC piston for extra wear should help the investigation. and yes @k3lv can't go wrong with a trip to Scotland

I would offer my taps but not worth the distance.

Why not drill a 2.5mm hole where the lever pushes the MC piston. make a M3 thread and insert a wee bolt. Then you can adjust the bolt to your desired position.

Poor bleeding? Assuming the pads are new as well. Unless there is a leak, which would leave a poodle on the floor I would go for air in the system

Got the pads for the car. A nice shiny orange box... Then this inside To find the pads here. What's the f point.....

MOT yesterday with a clean pass and road tax today. Bit of advice. Do your MOT on a garage that doesn't do repairs on bikes. They are more likely to just do the MOT without trying to stich you up with useless unnecessary repairs.

This reminds me last time I went to see the GP. He asked me how I was feeling. "I'm at the doctors, what you think?"

Hey, this guy is a genius

Did the nurse took into account the NAF? Nurse age factor, if she's under 30 your pressure will go through the roof

For that you have the Scottish Highlands

You really want to check all that on your service manual. regarding the W value, it all depends on how you prefer your suspension and what Honda specifies for your bike. Higher W means a stiffer suspension.

According to British standards, all road surfacing will require a minimum of 40 wear surface. For those less familiar with the build up of a road this is made of several layers. Firstly we will have the existing ground leveled and compacted.. A sub-base made of aggregate, this depending on ground condition, can be from 350mm upwards in order to support the traffic load (with 32 tonne lorries as max frequent load) Then a second layer of aggregate (optional) if ground condition requires extra load support. between 100 and 150 mm base layer of asphalt, usually with content of aggregate of larger stones. Then a coat of liquid asphalt (although has become a poor norm to "forget" to add this to surfacing opting for a richer base layer Finally, the wear course that will have a minimum of 40mm. This wear course will reduce it's thickness with time, depending on many factors. Unless the road was built non-complying and the surfacing wasn't done properly this should last a few years. When a pothole appears, this means the wear layer is now about 10 to 20mm. Because councils, or even highway authority take forever to repair them (although it shouldn't be repaired) the base and sub-base are usually also damaged. The reason why it is a useless thing to do, repairing a pothole will be done with different materials than the normal road build-up and binding is usually inexistent. Adding to this, the wear layer will be now half of the minimum so the repair is to the same level as surrounding pavement, therefore less than the 40mm. The only proper technical and economic solution would be the replacement of the section of road affected by the pothole(s) around 10m each side on the entire width of the road. The issue with this simplistic approach is the ramp created between the new surface (40mm) and the 20mm existing surface. Although this can be mitigated. Technically because it is the correct way of doing it for a longer lasting surface. Economically because if you consider a 10 years span, it will require fewer mobilization of equipment, even if heavier equipment is required for a complete surfacing.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1E_VXsrpZc/?igsh=MTZlc3UzeXFueWd5Zg==

Make sure you won't be risking safety. I know helmets that are not CE certified can lead you to a penalty. It is faced as you not wearing one. Same with gloves and other gear. Not that police would know by just looking and I never heard anyone being stopped for a check. Insurance on the other hand may refuse liability in case if a crash as your gear won't be to proper standard. The best way to import any gear would be while touring you buy it and wear during the ride on the way back.