RideWithStyles

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very nice! but not a fan of the stubby, to me doesn't suit it.

Hi. yes the c is a californian spec so its pretty much the cleanest model of it type at that time (emission saving design in 85...). as nick says really. anyway the general rule is if its close to the pass grade from std then just simply a tweak to the carbs/injecting, air box/filter and exhaust will be enough if it doesn't bugger up the rideability too much. there are things you could try to add (cannisters and extra baffles etc) but that depends on if that can be added or works with the old timer...the further away you are as std or modified to the pass the harder it is to get it to pass. mine is a bandit 650s k5 2005 carb is still in the pass mark as bog standard for now, no doubt as the years tick on the pass mark will get a hellofalot higher and tighter no matter which arseho they sit behind that desk,so ill either have to tweak it or change it, so if advice was going id say newer it is the better long term.

see bullet clips are just shite, so much better now! now i will say that is a poor job done but still the same. got slated when mentioned not to use bullet clips but a proper fixed solder solution is just better on a different thread.

but in reality your forcing/fighting a stronger spring which makes it more difficult without better tools or techniques.

they are shorter because the coils are tighter packed, stronger but also thicker.

yes we are familiar with those chinese bikes...nearly all the owners wanting advice because their broken.

then she'll be even more stupid and get a bigger car that she can't control nor park any better.

baf

as the others say, remove chain, remove small bolts and plate, pent liq, big long shaft flat headed screw driver behind sprocket and in front of case pull the driver at a 11 to 2 contact points a bit then spin the sprocket a bit so your now lifting what would have been 11 to 8 ooints and just keep moving it round bit at a time.

have you tested the batterys health? you can still charge a goosed battery and it wont start.

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Day of the dead OP weapon of choice!

Good

Hi thats great!

simples - add it to the to bike with a quick static warm up the week after you definitely decided not to ride anytime after that...

thats what living in an area (read into that what you will) with little experience or license category can do -cost too much. the advanced courses very rarely offer any worthwhile discounts to do soley for insurance cost purposes other than your own knowledge and piece of mind to ride in like the manner the courses preach. comps/under writers are very coy, look at percentages....not had a claim for a good while? they see it your more likely/risks get higher to have one /due one by being com-placement or something with the next years policy they have to pay out.

Nature is a miracle, myth and a mystery: miracle we have it, myth it can predicted all the time and a mystery we still have it.

i had the e36 325- bloody good car of a large family saloon which had a full sized wheel as a spare as std, the car had 15inches which back then were large beasts. a few years down the line mild hatches have 17s as std pretty much as big external but far less space everywhere internally. now budget super minis come on poverty spec 17s and side walls that resemble liquorice strips and few with little option of shite foam let alone a space saver, are even bigger than the hatches of last year's and even worse again inside....99% of the roads haven't got bigger and worse? a reverse progress trend.

thats the thing to save you from the same mistake, a part from the wrist what is it that actually makes it boring to you? if its the engine design and character? -is the inline 4 just so smooth and not talking/engaging enough for you then a bigger inline 4 is generally the same thing but even harder to achieve only its upper range reach is higher so to really engage with it your needing to go faster which has its own troubles or stay in the first two gears... have you tried a different engine configuration? triple and twin from a different manufacturer? they might just be what you're looking for?

SD - which one? that would be helpful for other people... H- great for milk too and yt fails.

Split