scooke Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Hey everyone, my bike (2000 Honda cbr 600f4) keeps munching through batteries a motobat within 4 months and just got a brand new standard battery. Now I've tested the regulator and that appears to be running well. How do I test the stator and is there anything else that could be causing this very annoying problem I'm having. Any help Greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Check for parasite currents. How long is the bike not running until the battery goes flat? Do the flat batteries keep charge once they are recharged? Is there an alarm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 Hiya Umm I'd get maybe couple months, maybe a month in cold weather. The batteries do keep charge when put on trickle charge. No alarm or addition add ons to the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Sounds like the bike is not charging the battery enough and not actually a battery problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 I have just noticed its a Honda! More than likely it will be the reg/rec on the way out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 You will need to get more info about how it charges when idle and at mid throttle. Then, as I said before check for parasite currents Likewise @Stu Honda is known for failing regulator Battery charge from alternator should be around 13.8V with rpm above idle (2k to 3k rpm) and around 12V on idle If the battery is fine after a run and fully charged then you just need to plug into a trickle charger when you know you will be leaving it for over 1 week. My ST1300 will go flat after a week because of the HISS and all electronics working while sleeping. This would do the trick https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/46459/#/27907,3203,1186 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six30 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 i had same thing on my cb1000r , rec/reg , common on them as stu said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 You guys are really helpful only one thing though, what is a parasite currents?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiggie Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Parasitic currents Its things that drain the battery while the ignition is off An alarm is a good example Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raesewell Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 The normal term is parasitic drain, but it means the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD-40 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 There's a very clear and easy to follow test procedure in the Honda cbr600 f4 workshop manual that goes through checking for current leakage and checking the charging system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 If you have a multimeter set it to measure current at a low setting, then disconnect the earth battery connection and put the multimeter between the earth terminal and a good earth on the frame. There should be little or no current flowing. If there is start pulling fuses until it stops. That will isolate the circuit it is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 OK I've done what the last comment suggested and it's reading 0.41. I've tried all fuses and it is not dropping at all. I know I've got a slightly higher fuse in the fan and tail position. Only other thing is that the fuse to the ignition is slightly lose compared to the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 400mA is a very strong current if nothing is running. Time to start tracing the "leak". Do the other way around. Instead inserting the multimeter on the ground side (-) go for the positive/red cable (+) Just make sure you don't touch anything you are not supposed to so you don't short-circuit the battery. How many cables do you have connected to the positive pole in the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 1 hour ago, scooke said: OK I've done what the last comment suggested and it's reading 0.41. I've tried all fuses and it is not dropping at all. I know I've got a slightly higher fuse in the fan and tail position. Only other thing is that the fuse to the 1 hour ago, husoi said: 400mA is a very strong current if nothing is running. Time to start tracing the "leak". Do the other way around. Instead inserting the multimeter on the ground side (-) go for the positive/red cable (+) Just make sure you don't touch anything you are not supposed to so you don't short-circuit the battery. How many cables do you have connected to the positive pole in the battery? You guys have been so helpful, I think it's going to be a couple days and stripping it. I'm as you probably guessed limited on my experience in dealing with electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, scooke said: You're not alone there everyone here is always keen to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Agreed, that kind of current flow will drain the battery quickly. If you can get the multimeter clipped into position, or ask someone to hold it for you, start by wiggling wires one at a time to see if moving any changes the reading. Check in the dark that no bulbs are glowing very dimly, you won't spot that in daylight. Check around the ignition switch in case a contact is sticking in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD-40 Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Try unplugging the connector going to the regulator/rectifier and check if the meter drops to 0A when it's unplugged. If it does it means a diode has shorted in the regulator/rectifier and current is flowing the wrong way back into the stator. You would need a new regulator/rectifier 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 59 minutes ago, WD-40 said: Try unplugging the connector going to the regulator/rectifier and check if the meter drops to 0A when it's unplugged. If it does it means a diode has shorted in the regulator/rectifier and current is flowing the wrong way back into the stator. You would need a new regulator/rectifier And if that is the case then see my second post Its always best to find out what is causing the problem before replacing parts though so follow the advice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD-40 Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 4 hours ago, Stu said: And if that is the case then see my second post Its always best to find out what is causing the problem before replacing parts though so follow the advice Yeah common problem on them. I think the only problem really. I think the CBR600 is a bike that certainly deserves the title bullet proof. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Right gents I've been troubleshooting for about 2-hours now the only thing I can see now is when I disconnect the starter motor and do the check the metre does drop to zero. Would I be correct in saying it could be the stator motor?? https://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2020_12/16072058261175030336296222003665.jpg.56a0767cbadf1269570dc836ab03a4e4.jpg https://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/forum/uploads/monthly_2020_12/16072058825843924199528378435101.jpg.bab94fe05fcbf6f72e5fc185d5e813ed.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 (edited) The pictures aren't working at my end. So I can't see if you're checking before or after the solenoid. Current shouldn't reach the starter unless the solenoid is activated so trace the leak back from the starter. Edited December 6, 2020 by Mississippi Bullfrog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WD-40 Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Bit of an unusual one. As Mississippi Bullfrog said the starter solenoid should be open so no current should be able to flow through the starter motor. I would check if there is voltage between the starter motor terminal and ground. If there is voltage on the starter motor terminal there is a problem in the starter circuit because there should be no voltage there until you press the starter switch. So connect the motorbike's battery back up. Put your meter to DC volts. Put the red probe on the starter motor terminal and the black probe on battery negative. On a normal working bike you would see 0V on the meter. If you see voltage that is the problem. A faulty starter solenoid would be the most likely cause. To test it you could disconnect the battery, unplug connector going to the solenoid and unbolt the larger connections so that the solenoid is completely removed from the bike. Put your meter to ohms and check for continuity across the bolted contacts switched contacts. On a fully working bike the meter would show OL which means no continuity. If your meter shows a resistance it means there is a connection across the bolted contacts and that is the fault. Maybe corrosion in the solenoid is causing a contact. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooke Posted February 3, 2021 Author Share Posted February 3, 2021 Hey everyone I think I found the problem, yellow wire from ECU to the ignition pickup module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 46 minutes ago, scooke said: Hey everyone I think I found the problem, yellow wire from ECU to the ignition pickup module. Cause or effect ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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