jedibiker Posted February 19, 2021 Author Posted February 19, 2021 On 17/02/2021 at 18:05, James in Brum said: Just want to say kudos for trying and methodically working your way through. I have benefited from the help and advice of the gang on here and despite having the practical skills of a sea anemone have had some luck in my repairs. watch out for my ‘help I am trying to repair it and I am breaking it thread at the weekend’. too true, has been a great help here. Quote
jedibiker Posted February 19, 2021 Author Posted February 19, 2021 6 hours ago, WD40 said: I think you've drilled into a passage that one of the head studs goes through. Have a look at the pictures https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Head-Cylinder-Yamaha-FZS-FZ6-600-Fazer-J501E/174640649186?hash=item28a964d3e2:g:tpEAAOSw8OteLwIY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cylinder-Head-Yamaha-Fazer-600-/133426632071?nma=true&si=c9VRyzGVUBALtJJ3QXpqvST0%2F1k%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 The fazer has long studs that thread into the crankcase. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-1998-2000-Engine-Crankcases-Crank-Cases-J501E-014202/333857330872?hash=item4dbb7296b8:g:MEUAAOSw~DNgAE9q Nuts hold the head to the cylinders. The nuts that hold the head are recessed into the camshaft journals. I think the oil you're seeing is what has collected around those nuts. If you can seal the exhaust stud threads and stop the oil coming past the threads I think you will be fine. Your best chance of salvaging the head is probably to take the head off and bring it to an engineering workshop and they will try with getting them out with a welder or just drill them out. Hi, cheers. Yesterday I tapped it out and used a magnet stick to get gunk out, dried with cotton tip and it stayed dry, so it should clean and seal, obviously under pressure could be different, but those pics are a great help cheers. 1 Quote
Bender Posted February 19, 2021 Posted February 19, 2021 Some high temp thread sealer should be fine. 1 Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 well its all back together. not sure how well its going to be and may still helicoil the one I went too deep on.. There is one other thats not perfect but does align up with the holes on the downpipe. I just didnt dare over tighten. When doing them up the studs were going in a little which I know is normal, then they stopped of course, but my gut feeling is not to try and tighten as the tapped threads could give if pushed.. going to start her up in a little while. if she sounds ok and no leaks il leave it be and put it down as experience. Il not tackle another cyclinder head anytime soon.. Quote
Ian Frog Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Best of luck with the start up. If you do have a small leakage maybe reinstall studs (preferably new ones) with a good helping of threadlock and allow to dry before fitting downpipes and nuts. Cheers Ian 2 Quote
fastbob Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) Have you used brass nuts ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-M6-M8-M10-X-1-25-5-16-UNF-/203255357212?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Edited February 25, 2021 by fastbob Quote
Bender Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Congrats on getting it sorted, hope it holds, it's all great practice, now when a mate says he's got a bolt stuck or snapped you can offer advice safe in the knowledge it's not your problem Fingers crossed for you. Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 No @fastbob I got new studs and nuts as a pack, stainless and installed with copper slip. @Ian Frogcheers hoping the new ones will do, or il helicoil it. cheers @Bender but now it wont start. just clicks and whines. I disconnected battery to weld, but fear something may have suffered. so pretty pissed off at min. see video https://www.dropbox.com/s/btv5vt0iun94zlt/20210225_114732.mp4?dl=0 Quote
fastbob Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Well you know what to do next time you find that you can't remove the oil filter without removing the exhaust . Sell the bike ! 1 Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 12 minutes ago, fastbob said: Well you know what to do next time you find that you can't remove the oil filter without removing the exhaust . Sell the bike ! 100% mate 2 Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 solenoid buzzing like crazy, touched terminals to try turn bike over, nope. on charge at min but even booster pack didnt turn it over. ah well Quote
Bender Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Sounds like battery, unlikely starter damaged by welding, I rarely remove anything when welding, just get earth close to point of welding. I did however blow something on a wagon, I was welding on a site and a pikey with 6fingers called John 6 fingers for obvious reasons asked me to repair some brackets on the chassis, in an attempt to get out of it I said he would have to remove battery and negative from chassis and unplug ecu, no says he it be fyne, so I did it and much to my amazement it was fooked, Turned over but not a sign of it starting, Ahhhh well said I and I packed up and left 1 Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Likewise, I've always just disconnected the battery earth and not had a problem when welding. 1 Quote
fastbob Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 You haven't got a stud sticking through into one of the pistons by any chance ? Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 31 minutes ago, fastbob said: You haven't got a stud sticking through into one of the pistons by any chance ? its not possible, the stud is far lower left and the pistons are much deeper inside. good thought though Quote
fastbob Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 24 minutes ago, jedibiker said: its not possible, the stud is far lower left and the pistons are much deeper inside. good thought though It was actually a joke but I don't always do Smiley Face and I certainly never do LOL . One thing you might consider though with all this downtime is that one or more cylinders might be a bit hydro locked with fuel and oil seepage . Disregard this comment if it's fuel injection . A remedy to that would be to give it a wiz with the plugs out . Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 Just now, fastbob said: It was actually a joke but I don't always do Smiley Face and I certainly never do LOL . One thing you might consider though with all this downtime is that one or more cylinders might be a bit hydro locked with fuel and oil seepage . Disregard this comment if it's fuel injection . A remedy to that would be to give it a wiz with the plugs out . i did google the anatomy of the head just to bloody make sure though haha. it is a carb bike. it was only started 10 days or so ago. Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 not sure if its a clue, but each time i go to try it the clock has reset. and this is how it looks with ignition switched on. something doesnt seem right at all. Quote
WD40 Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Could be a bad connection at the battery causing voltage drop when the starter tries to turn. You have a lot of connections on the battery terminal. Quote
James in Brum Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 21 minutes ago, jedibiker said: not sure if its a clue, but each time i go to try it the clock has reset. and this is how it looks with ignition switched on. something doesnt seem right at all. Fuel! not really, I just wanted to contribute 1 Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 32 minutes ago, WD40 said: Could be a bad connection at the battery causing voltage drop when the starter tries to turn. You have a lot of connections on the battery terminal. there is a few but its been the same with those few not connected. thing is its been sound until i had the exhaust off. Quote
fastbob Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 4 minutes ago, jedibiker said: there is a few but its been the same with those few not connected. thing is its been sound until i had the exhaust off. Nonetheless , it's never a bad idea to remove and buff up all battery connections at both ends and reconnect them securely . It doesn't cost anything except your time and it's something you can rule out if there's no change . 1 Quote
jedibiker Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 2 minutes ago, fastbob said: Nonetheless , it's never a bad idea to remove and buff up all battery connections at both ends and reconnect them securely . It doesn't cost anything except your time and it's something you can rule out if there's no change . I agree mate. will be part of my process tomorrow. Quote
skyrider Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 9 hours ago, jedibiker said: well its all back together. not sure how well its going to be and may still helicoil the one I went too deep on.. There is one other thats not perfect but does align up with the holes on the downpipe. I just didnt dare over tighten. When doing them up the studs were going in a little which I know is normal, then they stopped of course, but my gut feeling is not to try and tighten as the tapped threads could give if pushed.. going to start her up in a little while. if she sounds ok and no leaks il leave it be and put it down as experience. Il not tackle another cyclinder head anytime soon.. did you put them back with copper slip ? Quote
jedibiker Posted February 26, 2021 Author Posted February 26, 2021 14 hours ago, skyrider said: did you put them back with copper slip ? yeah. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.