Fazer will not engage clutch

[Stu]

Does the bike jump forward when you put it in gear before stalling? 

[jedibiker]

3 minutes ago, Stu said:

Does the bike jump forward when you put it in gear before stalling? 

doesnt seem to no. Just cuts out

[Stu]

This really does point to side stand switch but you say you have tested all that right? have you bypassed the switch 

 

If it was a stuck clutch then you should have a jump at least when you put it in gear as it would be stuck enough to stop the engine 

[jedibiker]

If it was the switch, wouldn't the wheel move when clutch is pulled in and on center stand? by hand that it? I know the switch is the obvious thought, but the center stand trick has me wonder.

[fastbob]

9 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

doesnt seem to no. Just cuts out

So it's probably not the clutch then . 

[fastbob]

18 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

I stacked them the other day and they all sat sweet, even with the 2 heat stained ones. But ive not tested each on its own.

Is that the procedure that is described in the manual then ? 

[jedibiker]

1 minute ago, fastbob said:

So it's probably not the clutch then . 

when in gear on the center stand the rear wheel wont move, pull the clutch in, the wheel wont move much at all but a little. .so how is it anything else?

[jedibiker]

1 minute ago, fastbob said:

Is that the procedure that is described in the manual then ? 

 if metal plates are warped surely they wont sit in a stack of metal plates neatly.. no gaps. 8 plates you would see something.. can see the mood your in tonight bud, need a beer or sumat

[Stu]

12 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

If it was the switch, wouldn't the wheel move when clutch is pulled in and on center stand? by hand that it? I know the switch is the obvious thought, but the center stand trick has me wonder.

 

You would be surprised! with a slight drag it can make it difficult to move by hand on the centre stand but no issues when is running etc 

[Stu]

When clutch plates warp they don't always warp the way you think! 

 

They can warp in a way that the edges of the plates curl up/down and its very very hard to spot 

[fastbob]

18 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

 if metal plates are warped surely they wont sit in a stack of metal plates neatly.. no gaps. 8 plates you would see something.. can see the mood your in tonight bud, need a beer or sumat

Firstly , I'm not in a mood . I'm sitting in my shed polishing my Harley and dreaming of a wonderful summer to come . Secondly I don't drink . What I can't understand is why you keep on asking leading questions and not doing things by the book . It's your bike and only you can see and touch it . One minute the clutch isn't separating , then it is , then it's suspected clutch drag , now it's the lock out system and not the clutch after all , or is it ? Next it'll be stalling because there's not enough petrol in it or a loose battery lead . Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to help you sort this bike out but it's a two way process . Remember who insisted that the top end noise was metal to metal contact when everyone was being fed clues about oil starvation ? It doesn't get more metal to metal than a piece of a tool stuck in the piston . And what stud extractor did I recommend ? Not the one that broke as I recall . I'm not trying to have a go here but can you not see how exasperating this is ?  Anyway . Whenever I have a bike that stalls when it is put into gear , the first place I look is the side stand switch . Have a pleasant evening . 

[jedibiker]

36 minutes ago, Stu said:

When clutch plates warp they don't always warp the way you think! 

 

They can warp in a way that the edges of the plates curl up/down and its very very hard to spot 

fair enough. they did all sit well.. was a tip I saw somewhere online

[jedibiker]

28 minutes ago, fastbob said:

Firstly , I'm not in a mood . I'm sitting in my shed polishing my Harley and dreaming of a wonderful summer to come . Secondly I don't drink . What I can't understand is why you keep on asking leading questions and not doing things by the book . It's your bike and only you can see and touch it . One minute the clutch isn't separating , then it is , then it's suspected clutch drag , now it's the lock out system and not the clutch after all , or is it ? Next it'll be stalling because there's not enough petrol in it or a loose battery lead . Nothing would give me greater pleasure than to help you sort this bike out but it's a two way process . Remember who insisted that the top end noise was metal to metal contact when everyone was being fed clues about oil starvation ? It doesn't get more metal to metal than a piece of a tool stuck in the piston . And what stud extractor did I recommend ? Not the one that broke as I recall . I'm not trying to have a go here but can you not see how exasperating this is ?  Anyway . Whenever I have a bike that stalls when it is put into gear , the first place I look is the side stand switch . Have a pleasant evening . 

The suggestion was the clutch wasn't separating, but I only visually checked when Id cleaned all the plates etc, it may have before but it sounded to most like a sticking clutch. Ive simply pointed out the steps Ive taken and the results ive seen. Ive not said its a lock out system as I think its always been the clutch and yet to find something to say its not.. Usually when the clutch is moved in you can move the back wheel when in gear, and at the min I cant. Fair enough I didn't check each plate on its own, but tried a tip I had seen about how metal plates sit as a stack. If any were out Id expect to see an uneven stack but its possible its a flawed tip.

But to me its not helping sending patronising one liners as if were in the bike chat forum. If this all annoys you then don't read or reply. You were bang on with the metal hence why I had the engine out and stripped it down, was advice I appreciated. But its been too shit a day for daft one liners.

[Stu]

24 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

fair enough. they did all sit well.. was a tip I saw somewhere online

 

I'm not saying you're wrong in what you have done just that they can warp in different ways and its always best to check them as many ways as possible while its all out to save hassle later

 

If you have not bypassed the side stand switch yet then do that next to rule it out  

[skyrider]

5 minutes ago, Stu said:

 

I'm not saying you're wrong in what you have done just that they can warp in different ways and its always best to check them as many ways as possible while its all out to save hassle later

 

If you have not bypassed the side stand switch yet then do that next to rule it out  

can you not just fit a new switch

[Stu]

1 minute ago, skyrider said:

can you not just fit a new switch

 

Probably but its best to test it to make sure it is the dead part first  

[skyrider]

5 minutes ago, Stu said:

 

Probably but its best to test it to make sure it is the dead part first  

yes that sounds right

[Stu]

Just now, skyrider said:

yes that sounds right

 

I'm not saying I like to make sure they are dead! 

 

And I am a Yorkshire man  

[skyrider]

Just now, Stu said:

 

I'm not saying I like to make sure they are dead! 

 

And I am a Yorkshire man  

that's it don't spend it if you don't need to 

[Mississippi Bullfrog]

Asking the obvious, does the rear wheel turn ok when it's in neutral?

 

With it in gear and the clutch lever pulled fully in the you should be able to turn the rear wheel by hand. But you would expect the bike to jump when cutting out rather than just dying.

 

How much free play is there at the clutch lever? 

 

When the clutch plates were out were the inner and outer parts of the basket free to move?

[James in Brum]

I find it difficult to move my rear wheel when it is neutral. I assumed that was normal or might I have issues with my clutch?

[Bender]

2 minutes ago, James in Brum said:

I find it difficult to move my rear wheel when it is neutral. I assumed that was normal or might I have issues with my clutch?

Just drag on plates.

[jedibiker]

2 hours ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

Asking the obvious, does the rear wheel turn ok when it's in neutral?

 

With it in gear and the clutch lever pulled fully in the you should be able to turn the rear wheel by hand. But you would expect the bike to jump when cutting out rather than just dying.

 

How much free play is there at the clutch lever? 

 

When the clutch plates were out were the inner and outer parts of the basket free to move?

In neutral moves freely, in gear not at all, then clutch pulled in still not but on a few moves will move a little.

clutch lever has little play, ive tried it in different positions too.

 

inner basket did, but i didnt try the outer.

[jedibiker]

11 hours ago, Stu said:

 

I'm not saying you're wrong in what you have done just that they can warp in different ways and its always best to check them as many ways as possible while its all out to save hassle later

 

If you have not bypassed the side stand switch yet then do that next to rule it out  

I agree, from assembly I know where the connector is, do i just unplug it or bridge the wires?

[Stu]

Just now, jedibiker said:

I agree, from assembly I know where the connector is, do i just unplug it or bridge the wires?

Depends which way the switch works 

 

Some you just unplug but 99% of them you bridge the wires I would go with bridging it