jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Hey, following the success of the rebuild the bike still wont engage clutch, or drop into gear without stalling.. Im still assuming oil and heat haven't freed off the plates maybe, but when checking the push rod, it doesnt move in at all... which I assume is how it works. it pulls out as normal. To test it wasn't the side stand switch I put it in gear while off, tried to turn the rear wheel with clutch in, wont budge.. any ideas at all before I start a long winded journey of clutch issues.. it did work until oil drainage(then not after first test with oil in) so I hoping its that.. before I took the engine out it wouldn't work either. #neverrainsbutpours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Old engine oil? Is the clutch cylinder working properly? air in the clutch system (hydraulics to cylinder)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 48 minutes ago, husoi said: Old engine oil? Is the clutch cylinder working properly? air in the clutch system (hydraulics to cylinder)? New oil. its a wired clutch to actuator and push rod, after that im clueless mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 So it will have a solenoid that will actuate the clutch. or... Does it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 IF the electric actuator is working then it is obvious that it's the plates that aren't disengaging. If you have just reconstructed the bike then the engine would have been sitting for an extended period with dry clutch disks. Have you tried running the engine and press the clutch? This would allow oil to get in between the plates. I would just run the engine, press the clutch lever and hold it with something and engage 1st gear with the wheel off the ground so the clutch will heat up and the plates start to separate as oil runs into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 Its not that fancy to have electric, its a cable and this mucky manual actuator.. this spins and pushes the rod. the rod wont go in any further at min.. (this is now cleaned lol) I will try getting the engine nice and warm, pull clutch in and see if it does anything.. but if put into first it will stall.. and clutch wont let the wheel move when off too so its not side switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Have you check the clutch switch at the lever? Wired as a steel cable? That won't be wired, is just a cable actuator instead hydraulic. Wired is electrically wired. Going back, if the rod isn't bulging then you may have the clutch wrongly assembled... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 As it is a cable actuated clutch is the rod passing through the engine one or two piece? It has been known for there to be a ball bearing between the rods which can go missing if you removed the rods during your strip down. Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 @husoi @Ian Frog I never stripped the clutch or gears. Only the top was stripped and rebuilt. The rod on these appears to be 1 piece. Im hoping when I start it tomorrow its just a case of getting it warm and it freeing itself off. There isnt really anything else that could cause it has not touched it.. the only thing that part will have lost for a while is oil, and I believe not alot goes near it when stood anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 If that is the case and I am inclined to agree with you. I would try the following. Bike on sidestand (This means you probably won`t have to lose the oil). Remove clutch cover release tension on the springs and take out the centre. Taking care to maintain the order remove the plates and gently clean and lubricate. If the information is available measure the stack height with the plates in the correct order standing on a plate of glass or with a vernier. Reassemble and check for free movement prior to tightening springs. Good luck. Cheers Ian 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 52 minutes ago, Ian Frog said: If that is the case and I am inclined to agree with you. I would try the following. Bike on sidestand (This means you probably won`t have to lose the oil). Remove clutch cover release tension on the springs and take out the centre. Taking care to maintain the order remove the plates and gently clean and lubricate. If the information is available measure the stack height with the plates in the correct order standing on a plate of glass or with a vernier. Reassemble and check for free movement prior to tightening springs. Good luck. Cheers Ian Sounds like a good plan mate thankyou.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgrump Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Hi, just start it up and leave it ticking over, until oil is hot then keep pulling the clutch in and out, or even better cable tie clutch lever in when warming engine up. It will soon free off and start working, If I'm not using my CBR400 for a couple weeks I cable tie clutch lever in, to stop clutch sticking. Been a common problem with jap clutches for years, Think there was a guy on here with a bandit the other week, he just warmed it up and clutch freed off. Yamaha are worse Dt175mx every morning!!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Do you have center stand? Start it up with rear wheel off ground, hold front brake just incase , Rev up pull clutch, use rear brake to try get plates to seperate. If rod is moving and you've not touched anything else presumably it's just suction on the plates holding them, leaving it running to warm everything up should help. Left to get hot you may get away with rocking it with clutch pulled in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 Great il try all this and worst case is get the cover off.. thanks all 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 An electric clutch ? What are you guys on ? Based on past events , wouldn't be a good idea to just read the manual and figure it all out for yourself ? Otherwise you will repeat the same process of pointless conjecture and wishful thinking when all you need to do is open up the clutch and have a look . Oh and all those decades of chainlube under the cover . The best cleaner you could use is petrol , trust me , nothing else comes close . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 1 hour ago, jedibiker said: Great il try all this and worst case is get the cover off.. thanks all Not the worst case but the first thing I would do . If it's stuck you could rip off the friction plates and they would end up in the sump . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 I'm a bit slow but the problem seems to be not that the clutch won't engage but rather that it won't disengage. Did you say the activation rod isn't moving properly? If so I'd be looking into that as the default position for the clutch is to be engaged and the clutch release system disengages it. What does the lever feel like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 First things first . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 11 hours ago, fastbob said: First things first . I did say this was cleaned at the start mate, and it moves fine. ive not touched anything on that hence why I asked here as experience can be quicker than the haynes, which usually suggests strip downs.. Checking here is another tenner ish that Ive not got so little tricks first. Past events? yeah made a mistake on the drill but the tool explode was hardly my fault. @Mississippi Bullfrog sorry yes the terms used are backwards, but meaning the clutch is stuck, the rod doesnt move any futher in at the minute, but the actuator does move. I thought the lever felt a little tighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Few questions . ( You may have answered already but please humour me ) 1.Have you Removed ANY of the clutch system in the rebuild ? 2. Is the clutch lever action hard or soft to engage ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 minute ago, TimR said: Few questions . ( You may have answered already but please humour me ) 1.Have you Removed ANY of the clutch system in the rebuild ? 2. Is the clutch lever action hard or soft to engage ? Ive not touched any of the clutch in the rebuild, only the sprocket cover to clean, but it was like this before and after I cleaned it. clutch lever feels ok but Im sure it was a little softer before when it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 minute ago, jedibiker said: Ive not touched any of the clutch in the rebuild, only the sprocket cover to clean, but it was like this before and after I cleaned it. clutch lever feels ok but Im sure it was a little softer before when it worked. Have you adjusted the cable ? Using the adjuster screw on the actuator ? https://www.beginnerbiker.com/2018/07/replacing-clutch-cable-yamaha-fazer-fzs600/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 minute ago, TimR said: Have you adjusted the cable ? Using the adjuster screw on the actuator ? https://www.beginnerbiker.com/2018/07/replacing-clutch-cable-yamaha-fazer-fzs600/ No, but that adjustment part wont adjust. The screw is solid. the cable is as it was with the right amount of slack, also tried it tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, jedibiker said: No, but that adjustment part wont adjust. The screw is solid. the cable is as it was with the right amount of slack, also tried it tight. Ok looks like you are missing a spring also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 Just now, TimR said: Ok looks like you are missing a spring also the spring is on, the photo was just to show the first husoi its not electric clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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