fastbob Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 18 minutes ago, husoi said: Wouldn't heavier duty springs make the clutch harder to operate? Try riding a GSX 1100 from Coventry to Scotland . You'll find out where your Carpel Tunnel is situated just as you pass Manchester . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 minute ago, fastbob said: Try riding a GSX 1100 from Coventry to Scotland . You'll find out where your Carpel Tunnel is situated just as you pass Manchester . Why do you think I got a shadow and an ST3100? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 minute ago, fastbob said: Try riding a GSX 1100 from Coventry to Scotland . You'll find out where your Carpel Tunnel is situated just as you pass Manchester . I can imagine, im not too bad to be honest but she struggles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 anyway, she sounds better today.. nipped up exhaust and made sure oil was right etc.. https://www.dropbox.com/s/jwy9c4o5cs2glxs/VID-20210330-WA0007.mp4?dl=0 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 28 minutes ago, fastbob said: They don't stretch , they compress . I get that, but if those are out of spec it's worth checking why. If a spring overheats it can change the properties of the steel which can affect its effectiveness. Hard to see how it would get that degree of heat but you never know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 10 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said: I get that, but if those are out of spec it's worth checking why. If a spring overheats it can change the properties of the steel which can affect its effectiveness. Hard to see how it would get that degree of heat but you never know. A compressed spring subject to a lot of heat, enough to alter the properties, will become shorter and will lose strength. To the point that, if stupidly hot, it will lose all elasticity and become the size that normally sits in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 27 minutes ago, husoi said: A compressed spring subject to a lot of heat, enough to alter the properties, will become shorter and will lose strength. To the point that, if stupidly hot, it will lose all elasticity and become the size that normally sits in place. I guess that's what I'd expect, but I used to have a line in rebuilding Vauxhall engines which overheated due to a seal on the back of the water pump being a weak point. They nearly all got diagnosed as head gasket failure which was often a secondary joy because the head then warped once the coolant failed. But it was rarely the actual main cause. Which is academic really, the thing was in most of them the valve springs turned out to be goosed and the check was that they were longer than spec. Not a lot, but enough so I always replaced them as a matter of course. The other fun thing on them was they loved to undo the cam journal bolts all by themselves. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 hour ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said: I get that, but if those are out of spec it's worth checking why. If a spring overheats it can change the properties of the steel which can affect its effectiveness. Hard to see how it would get that degree of heat but you never know. Because someone put aftermarket springs in of a different length , that's all . I've never known such wild speculation about one motorcycle . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 25 minutes ago, fastbob said: Because someone put aftermarket springs in of a different length , that's all . I've never known such wild speculation about one motorcycle . It's a conversation, that's why it's fun. Of course the springs are out of spec. But new ones are on order I think so it's no big deal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 2 hours ago, jedibiker said: anyway, she sounds better today.. nipped up exhaust and made sure oil was right etc.. https://www.dropbox.com/s/jwy9c4o5cs2glxs/VID-20210330-WA0007.mp4?dl=0 Sounding much better 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 we come here to use our brains and talk bikes lol. Yeah this has gone deep but what else we gunna do haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 On 29/03/2021 at 15:53, Ian Frog said: As it is a cable actuated clutch is the rod passing through the engine one or two piece? It has been known for there to be a ball bearing between the rods which can go missing if you removed the rods during your strip down. Cheers Ian The rod is two piece and yes , it does have a ball in the middle . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 6 minutes ago, fastbob said: The rod is two piece and yes , it does have a ball in the middle . Thanks for clarifying that Bob. I am not familiar with the Fazer lump but I have seen people do it on more than one occasion. Sounds like he has it under control now though (fingers crossed lol). Just in time for a bank holiday which will of course be a wash out lol. Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 38 minutes ago, fastbob said: The rod is two piece and yes , it does have a ball in the middle . it seems to have a ball at the end only. https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181556/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 1 hour ago, jedibiker said: it seems to have a ball at the end only. https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181556/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/clutch To my method of thinking that's in the middle . There's a long rod and a short rod with a ball in-between the two . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 3 hours ago, fastbob said: Because someone put aftermarket springs in of a different length , that's all . I've never known such wild speculation about one motorcycle . Hey Waldorf, how's Statler? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) this clutch is driving me mad, pardon the pun.. Swapped bad plates and put couple new friction plates in, cleaned up the basket a little but it was smooth anyway.. Can see clutch plates moving when I pull lever in, but still no good.. I also put it on center stand, in gear and pull clutch in, its stiff to move the wheel at first then will move a bit.. what on earth is the deal.. And ball bearing is at the other side before smaller push rod end.. Edited April 1, 2021 by jedibiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Not read all the way through but have you tried to start it put it in gear and then stop the rear wheel with the rear brake while on the centre stand with the clutch in? It might just be a bit of drag which can be normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 8 minutes ago, Stu said: Not read all the way through but have you tried to start it put it in gear and then stop the rear wheel with the rear brake while on the centre stand with the clutch in? It might just be a bit of drag which can be normal when I start it buddy it stalls. to rule out side switch I try it with engine off on stand, its stiff then wheel moves a bit. here is how much the pack moves https://www.dropbox.com/s/b0dlim6s18j5zx3/20210401_182101.mp4?dl=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 6 minutes ago, jedibiker said: when I start it buddy it stalls. to rule out side switch I try it with engine off on stand, its stiff then wheel moves a bit. here is how much the pack moves https://www.dropbox.com/s/b0dlim6s18j5zx3/20210401_182101.mp4?dl=0 Plenty of movement on that clutch pack When you say you start it and it stalls is this when you put it in gear? also do you have to pull the clutch to start the bike? have you checked the clutch switch too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 I checked clutch switch, which was new last year anyway but yeah when put it in gear it stalls. I bypassed the switch just in case. its like its just not disengaged enough. I thought it moved plenty too.. might just need a good rev up etc. But plates and basket are clean etc. odd really. cant do much as gasket wasn't in stock so was testing with tray under the bike, doesn't leak on side stand but obviously does on center. Parts place near me has messed me about something rotten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Have you placed every steel plate and every friction plate on a known flat surface ( A marble worktop will do ) and measured for warpage with a feeler gauge ? The degree of movement in the video looks more than adequate to allow separation of the plates to me so something is causing friction . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 1 minute ago, jedibiker said: I checked clutch switch, which was new last year anyway but yeah when put it in gear it stalls. I bypassed the switch just in case. its like its just not disengaged enough. I thought it moved plenty too.. might just need a good rev up etc. But plates and basket are clean etc. odd really. cant do much as gasket wasn't in stock so was testing with tray under the bike, doesn't leak on side stand but obviously does on center. Parts place near me has messed me about something rotten. So you're conducting these tests with the clutch dry then ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, fastbob said: Have you placed every steel plate and every friction plate on a known flat surface ( A marble worktop will do ) and measured for warpage with a feeler gauge ? The degree of movement in the video looks more than adequate to allow separation of the plates to me so something is causing friction . I stacked them the other day and they all sat sweet, even with the 2 heat stained ones. But ive not tested each on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedibiker Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, fastbob said: So you're conducting these tests with the clutch dry then ? No, I soaked the plates, cleaned the steel plates and basket.. but on its side stand the oil sits in the sump, but moves out if upright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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