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Posted

So Domestic management has raised objections to me warming parts & curing paint in the house oven, so.......

If I scored a cheap 2nd hand electric one off eBay, could I run it off a 13A extension cable?

(I’m thinking long and slow) or would it have to be a separate take off from the fuse box with properly rated cabling? 
I think I know the answer, but just wondering!!

Posted

It depends on the oven. There's plenty sold these days that run off a standard 13amp plug. You'd need heavy duty extension cable though for an oven. I'd keep it as short as possible.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

It depends on the oven. There's plenty sold these days that run off a standard 13amp plug. You'd need heavy duty extension cable though for an oven. I'd keep it as short as possible.

H’mm Garage is 50’ away at the bottom of the garden.

Posted

I have been led to believe that it's the hob rather than the actual oven that draws the most current.

 

Of course I may be talking bollocks too but it is what I was once told :classic_blush:

  • Like 1
Posted

I reckon that once it is up to temperature it wont be so bad cycling on and off, as Mr Bullfrog said providing it is a 13a rated oven but 50ft away from the house is a tough one, you did know the answer already :) properly rated cable.

I would be waiting until housekeeping went out then whacking the oven on.

Posted
3 minutes ago, paulc said:

I reckon that once it is up to temperature it wont be so bad cycling on and off, as Mr Bullfrog said providing it is a 13a rated oven but 50ft away from the house is a tough one, you did know the answer already :) properly rated cable.

I would be waiting until housekeeping went out then whacking the oven on.

and risk the consequences 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Or buy one of those smaller plug in ovens, usually less current needed than a full size jobbie. Just depends what you need to fit in it.

 

The type of oven that comes with a fitted 13amp plug is the type that fits into a kitchen cabinet rather than a free standing one with a job. 

Posted

Obviously couldn't be used indoors but thought I'd mention that I've seen on a few of Alan millyards videos that he uses a gas BBQ for heating parts up etc

  • Like 1
Posted

Worst case is voltage drop, it's an oven it will just take longer and only slightly longer to heat up, you want one under 3000w to run off a standard 13amp plug, just buy a cheap plug in one, run 2.5mm blue Arctic and keep as short as you can, it's good for 16amp.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

just wire it into your fuse box , it'll be fine 

 

 

 

24 hours later at the Micklys

 

See the source image

Posted
46 minutes ago, Six30 said:

just wire it into your fuse box , it'll be fine 

 

 

 

24 hours later at the Micklys

 

See the source image

Ok that could be worst case 😁 

Generally that's down to bad connections though.

Guest Swagman
Posted

Our oven is a 13amp one it runs off a 16amp trip, it is only a hob nowadays that uses the 30amp cable and trip, they basically run just like one of those table top ovens that just plug into a normal socket.

Posted
26 minutes ago, Swagman said:

Our oven is a 13amp one it runs off a 16amp trip, it is only a hob nowadays that uses the 30amp cable and trip, they basically run just like one of those table top ovens that just plug into a normal socket.

If it's on a spur a 16 or 20amp trip is fine, if it's just being plugged into a ring it's 32, either way  as long as connections are good you can't overload it at the point your drawing from as long as it's under 13amp

Guest Swagman
Posted
2 minutes ago, Bender said:

If it's on a spur a 16 or 20amp trip is fine, if it's just being plugged into a ring it's 32, either way  as long as connections are good you can't overload it at the point your drawing from as long as it's under 13amp

Ours is defo on a 16 amp trip, and yes it is fine.

Posted

Before you go messing with the hoose wiring keep in mind that kitchen have its own power ring. The oven would be plugged into it. For the sound of it your kitchen ring doesn't have a connection for the oven so as long you know how to do it, you would be able to take some power from it for the oven as long you can trace the power cable.

Posted
3 minutes ago, husoi said:

Before you go messing with the hoose wiring keep in mind that kitchen have its own power ring. The oven would be plugged into it. For the sound of it your kitchen ring doesn't have a connection for the oven so as long you know how to do it, you would be able to take some power from it for the oven as long you can trace the power cable.

Just because he's plugging an oven in he dosen't have to plug it into a circuit in the kitchen if it's 50ft down the drive....

 

 

Posted

I think my oven is 900w so that's only 3.75 amps. Same as someone said above its the rings that take all the power on a cooker 👍

Posted
1 hour ago, Fleck said:

I think my oven is 900w so that's only 3.75 amps. Same as someone said above its the rings that take all the power on a cooker 👍

Yuu must have the most pathetic oven in the world, a normal oven is usually very close to 3000w, after that it has to be hard wired.

 

Hobs have to be hard wired as a small ring is usually rated just under 1kW. Main rings under 3kW.

 

As a side how under powered is the grid, they want us to go electric cooking, electric heating and electric cars......

 

If only we lived in the EU @XTreme

  • Like 2
Posted

Both our ovens are hard wired into the domestic 35 amp supply  ..... and we have a gas hob ...

Posted

How hot do you need it to be, could you make some kind of insulated box with an oil filled radiator as the heat source inside it :thumb:

  • Like 1
Posted

As @Bender said, you'll need to consider voltage drop - over the full length of the cable 'as it runs' from the consumer unit to the final garage socket, not just from the point you spur off an existing circuit. I'd also consider the existing load on the circuit you'll be spurring off - especially if it's a kitchen circuit anything like ours which has a shit-load of stuff on it already - although I guess a small oven won't be a problem. If you just spur off an existing circuit you'll be relying on the RCD at the head end, with no discrimination between faults in the house and faults in the garage, which again might not be great depending on what else is on the circuit. Then you'll have to piss about pulling the cable through 50 feet of trunking (and applying the appropriate derating factor, naturally 🙂) just for a 13 amp socket.  

 

The better option might be to run an SWA from a spare way in the consumer unit and then you can have as much power in the garage as you want - lights, sockets, heaters - whatever. As a new circuit it'd be notifiable, which is the perfect excuse not to have to piss about doing it yourself but sit back with a G&T and let someone else do the hard work. :thumb:

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So thanks for all the advice, but it all seems a bit too much hassle.

So I’ve taken advantage of the rise in temperature to give the Trophy’s head many coats of paint & because it’s just too big to fit in our oven it’s now baking in the garden.

9948A2BE-AC1D-4730-8A8A-1A8DDF2E86EA.jpeg.cb4257fe2596bfb5512bd98ecb9ce662.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Yup prob with burning gas is water vapour produced by burning it, infra red bottle top one would prob be nest type with plenty of ventilation, but you may as well just buy electric infra red, you don't need to keep the electric in a bottle and it won't kill you with Co poisoning 😁 

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