Stu Posted April 16, 2021 Posted April 16, 2021 @James in Brum also get an R clip to replace the split pin https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/R-Clips/36632/bn_55211736 I am not sure what size you would want though Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 Ace, R clips are easy to get, I can do that 4.00 35 is what I need. now just to wait until I am not an ar*ehole for using a grinder. 1 Quote
dynax Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 Wouldn't be the first time a nail has been used in place of the split pin Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 I have used welding wire when I didn't have the right split pin. I would be a bit wary of using an R clip, only because I use them on my boat trailers to retain trolley wheels and people nick them. They are too easy for some idiot to remove. Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 High gang. help me out again please. Book says I need non hardening thread locking stuff to fix the new sprocket to rear wheel. i cannot find such a thing on the net. I can find thread lock, and plumbing thread sealant. I need to be able to get it from a shop today unless one of you says it is not necessary. Quote
KiwiBob Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, James in Brum said: High gang. help me out again please. Book says I need non hardening thread locking stuff to fix the new sprocket to rear wheel. i cannot find such a thing on the net. I can find thread lock, and plumbing thread sealant. I need to be able to get it from a shop today unless one of you says it is not necessary. https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCTITE-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker-Adhesive/dp/B0068NKLQ6/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=lock+tight&qid=1618646973&sr=8-15 Edited April 17, 2021 by KiwiBob Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 Thank you. Seems medium strength is the same as non-hardening? local motor factors is checking they have some in stock for me. Quote
oldgrump Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 Hi, Yes use non-hardening, years ago red was non hardening, and green was permanent!! And the only way to get green undone was Heat!!!! Quote
TimR Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 Re grinding the chain ... Remember where your fuel overflow / vent pipes are ! Sparky sparky The norm is to grind the heads off two of the rivets and then use the chain tool if needed. But generally the outer plate will fall off or lever off easier . 1 Quote
Bender Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 Medium loctite should be fine, I keep it in my van but it's a bit out of your way I would stick with split pin too. Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 Going out on a hunt for stuff. I have to go to Glos for an eye test for 11:30 so going to try some tool places there. Quote
fastbob Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 14 hours ago, James in Brum said: Thanks. furst bigger hurdle. I thought that the riveting tool was the pin to break the chain and may have knackered my tool I have a much better rivetting tool than that one that you are welcome to borrow . Quote
onesea Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 Depends what tools you lying around but is there a reason you could not use bolt croppers.. Quote
fastbob Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 2 minutes ago, onesea said: Depends what tools you lying around but is there a reason you could not use bolt croppers.. A bit dramatic but that would work . I just use a small abrasive wheel on a standard drill to grind the heads off the soft rivets . Then , with the link positioned on the rear sprocket , I just get a big flat screwdriver and a hammer and wedge it behind the side plate . A couple of whacks and job done . 2 Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 I used a Grinder and just cut through. That was a few hours ago. Waiting for new specs then home to try and sort it all I have r-clips, split pins, thread lock and copper grease thanks to Halfords 1 Quote
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 4 minutes ago, James in Brum said: I used a Grinder and just cut through. That was a few hours ago. Waiting for new specs then home to try and sort it all I have r-clips, split pins, thread lock and copper grease thanks to Halfords What! You only bought the things you need? Poor show that chap. A trip for parts needed is always an excuse to purchase extras that will one day come in useful. Easier to sneak into house that way. 3 Quote
dynax Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 13 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said: What! You only bought the things you need? Poor show that chap. A trip for parts needed is always an excuse to purchase extras that will one day come in useful. Easier to sneak into house that way. Especially tools, letting the side down Quote
Tiggie Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 I remember when starting the planning for redoing my kitchen. I convinced my Wife it would be too difficult to do for me without a cross line laser level and a shiny new jigsaw 1 Quote
Stu Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 51 minutes ago, Tiggie said: I remember when starting the planning for redoing my kitchen. I convinced my Wife it would be too difficult to do for me without a cross line laser level and a shiny new jigsaw Do this all the time! 1 Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 Okay, spacers. I think I have them in the right order. I have checked parts diagrams. I just want to check because the one that fits against the baring seems to stick out and is free floating around the axle if the axle is through. Is that right? Quote
TimR Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) 10 minutes ago, James in Brum said: Okay, spacers. I think I have them in the right order. I have checked parts diagrams. I just want to check because the one that fits against the baring seems to stick out and is free floating around the axle if the axle is through. Is that right? Yes it has to float otherwise it would tighten up on the bearings etc As long as you have the right top hat spacer in the right place ...there are 2 if i remember correctly ...the one shown and one in the cush drive housing . Both are different lengths so ...be sure Edited April 17, 2021 by TimR Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 I have a spacer I cannot seem to fit. I think it goes between the calliper bracket and the swing arm. I am not 100 per cent sure and I cannot quite figure out the parts diagram. where am I going wrong. Is it just that it is tight and will require some fiddling? I did not spot this spacer when I took it apart hence my confusion. Quote
James in Brum Posted April 17, 2021 Author Posted April 17, 2021 26 minutes ago, TimR said: Yes it has to float otherwise it would tighten up on the bearings etc As long as you have the right top hat spacer in the right place ...there are 2 if i remember correctly ...the one shown and one in the cush drive housing . Both are different lengths so ...be sure Cush drive housing? I have two spacers that could be described as top hat, I have one on the left and one on the right, I kept the one on the right on the axle so I think I have them the right way round. Quote
jedibiker Posted April 17, 2021 Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, James in Brum said: Thanks. furst bigger hurdle. I thought that the riveting tool was the pin to break the chain and may have knackered my tool On thicker chains you need to grind off the link end, then use the tool. its too tough on thick tough chains. (oops read the rest of the thread lol sorry) Edited April 17, 2021 by jedibiker Quote
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