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Fazer 600 2003 manifold bolts


jedibiker
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2 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

Fair enough, it does make total sense. Never know peoples sense of humour here ha. To me it looked bad hence my reply :)

A prune is a plum that thinks too much . 😉

Edited by fastbob
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43 minutes ago, fastbob said:

No need to machine something that doesn't need machining . Remember , this isn't a Brough Superior , it's a consumer product built down to a price to maximize profits . That's why it's got 6mm exhaust studs instead of 8mm . 

Looks like a crank produced by the night shift at @rennie’s place 🤣🤣

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1 hour ago, jedibiker said:

Dropped on a mint block and also a head. loads of spare bits too.. very lucky.

20210321_183611.jpg

Can I suggest that you invest in a set of BRASS nuts for the exhaust studs on this one , £2.25 .  .  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-M6-M8-M10-X-1-25-5-16-UNF-/203255357212?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Screenshot_20210321-201914.png

Edited by fastbob
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Just now, TimR said:

If you're using that block i would advise looking at the piston orientation arrows ... Why have they been installed incorrectly ? 

 

Oh don't set him off again . They're not connected to the con rods yet . Come on , catch on . 

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28 minutes ago, fastbob said:

Oh don't set him off again . They're not connected to the con rods yet . Come on , catch on . 

See above I realised this  as images dont resize instantly on my phone and didn't realise it was just the block itself 

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11 hours ago, fastbob said:

Can I suggest that you invest in a set of BRASS nuts for the exhaust studs on this one , £2.25 .  .  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-M6-M8-M10-X-1-25-5-16-UNF-/203255357212?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Screenshot_20210321-201914.png

I agree, I did buy 8mm studs and brass nuts incase I went up a size. But I wont get to use those. Il have bits I need to sell on or try and return lol. But yes, will get brass as recommended. cheers.

 

@TimR easy mistake when viewing photos.

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Any advice on putting the block back on over the pistons would be great, I have seen a few videos of plastic bottles being used etc and a guy just got the pistons to slide up with a wiggle. at this point I want to take care and not mess up the pistons or liners.

cheers

@fastbob@TimR

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34 minutes ago, jedibiker said:

Any advice on putting the block back on over the pistons would be great, I have seen a few videos of plastic bottles being used etc and a guy just got the pistons to slide up with a wiggle. at this point I want to take care and not mess up the pistons or liners.

cheers

@fastbob@TimR

Define your process .

 

Dobyou mean all pistons connected to crankshaft and slide them in from bottom as that is like herding cats ..... frustrating and can result in things not going to plan .

 

 

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Just now, TimR said:

Define your process .

 

Dobyou mean all pistons connected to crankshaft and slide them in from bottom as that is like herding cats ..... frustrating and can result in things not going to plan .

 

 

Read up on piston ring gap placements and position.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, TimR said:

Define your process .

 

Dobyou mean all pistons connected to crankshaft and slide them in from bottom as that is like herding cats ..... frustrating and can result in things not going to plan .

 

 

Yes.

 

Read up on piston ring gap placements and position. cheers will do

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Fitting pistons depends to some extent on the design of the barrels . If there is a shallow taper that starts off really wide then they will practically fit themselves . My ER5 almost dropped into place when I was lining it up . The trick is to not rush and let gravity do the work . You need to get right up close to the rings with plenty of light on the job . I would recommend a good read of the Haynes Manual before starting . 

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Might I also suggest a small LED headtorch is really helpful when you would normally find yourself getting in your own light.

Like @fastbob I had some GPZ1100 more or less self assemble while I was checking stuff. Maybe the leading taper is a Kawasaki thing?

Cheers

Ian

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27 minutes ago, Ian Frog said:

Might I also suggest a small LED headtorch is really helpful when you would normally find yourself getting in your own light.

Like @fastbob I had some GPZ1100 more or less self assemble while I was checking stuff. Maybe the leading taper is a Kawasaki thing?

Cheers

Ian

I think it is . I did a Z1000 ST once with no special tools . 

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@fastbob @Ian Frog I know some do seem to taper in, these don't seem to. I had a practice run with old pistons and old block, was fiddly. And that was in ideal conditions. I do have a brilliant head torch that I use all the time.

Ive got some plastic ready and tie wraps to make a compressor, but apart from seeing how they were made and added, Ive not seen how he fitted them and got these off. So,, I may just take my time and do it by feel. Using some wooden blocks to hold the block in place as I do it. Waiting for the gaskets to arrive still so basically going over and over the process. The Haynes manual is actually little help as it says you don't really need compressor as the pistons will find their way as such.. ok for the experts.

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Your biggest problem with working with the engine in the frame , especially on a Fazer ,  is that the engine is far from vertical . The block will be leaning forwards and gravity will not be working in your favour . I would try to block up the centre stand ( if it has one ) and get something under the front end to make the engine level . 

 

Screenshot_20210322-174929.png

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1 hour ago, fastbob said:

Your biggest problem with working with the engine in the frame , especially on a Fazer ,  is that the engine is far from vertical . The block will be leaning forwards and gravity will not be working in your favour . I would try to block up the centre stand ( if it has one ) and get something under the front end to make the engine level . 

 

Screenshot_20210322-174929.png

The engine is out of the bike mate

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