RideWithStyles Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 (edited) 12 hours ago, S-Westerly said: I went to Smith and Allen's place in Darlington when I had the Multistrada which was a bit of an oil burner. I bought 10 litres for the cost of not much more than a litre of Shell equivalent. They told me they blended lubes etc on the premises and labelled it for various brands except the oil majors such as Shell. As there is no chance whatsoever that I'll be playing with my suspension especially as its electronically adjusted I'll leave it to the guys who do it. I really don't care what brand goes in but I'd prefer the correct weight of oil as that is presumably what Ohlins designed the system to use. some bikes are happy to burn abit, some brands of oils burn more than others, depending on how the engine was designed and which oils were selected at the OM spec. so for some it might not matter as long as its in spec of X ml to 1000miles. you can blend them if you know what youve got (the characteristics of those oil) and what your end result your after...some might just see it a negative reason of re selling or something else. Thats the point...they aint all the same. so one garage goes meh close enough... they have different characteristics which is great when you know what you want it do do for whats inside, if you dont thats why sometimes people think hey why does this feel so different/terrible now? its a good chance its sue to this.. some units and people are more sensitive to adjustments than others so its really down to the user to make what they want of anything. if you go to use a ohlins cert service garage you have a very good change of them using an ohlins oil, reasonable so if the dealer/garage has a long history with the brand. nothing scary inside those forks as just a plain cartridge system with a wire and a small solenoid to move the valve for you, not much different to a AMT / DCT gearbox system really or if your familiar with an automatic preload adjuster. Now if its a magnetic system then it gets a bit more complicated and special oil... Edited February 27 by RideWithStyles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S-Westerly Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Still have zero interest in touching my bike's forks. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veracocha Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 I fitted "rifle sight flip up covers" to my auxiliary lights. Simply flip the cover when I want white light and flip em down when I want yellow. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe85 Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 I went with an end can over te full system; i really cant be arsed with remapping and all that jazz. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
husoi Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 MOT yesterday with a clean pass and road tax today. Bit of advice. Do your MOT on a garage that doesn't do repairs on bikes. They are more likely to just do the MOT without trying to stich you up with useless unnecessary repairs. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfrowne Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 On 25/02/2024 at 19:00, Mississippi Bullfrog said: I like to support local retailers whenever I can so I didn't order fork oil online. After all, J&S is just round the corner. But no, they don't stock 10W fork oil, only 5W. Why? Halfrords it is then. But oh dear, they only have 1 500ml bottle in stock, enough for one fork. That's not much good. So it's back to ebay and a litre bottle is on the way. Shit, I've found 3 litres of Motul 10W fork oil on the shelf and I don't really know why I've got so much of it. All unopened. I'm nearly done with the KTM. Shims have all been adjusted and clearances rechecked, all good. Then all the guts that had to be taken off or moved, unclipped etc. is all back in place, which took some thinking, pictures would have been a help but still it's all a bit of mess in there above the engine. Also changed the thermostat cover from the original to its updated part, which is known to cause a bit of leakage apparently due to its ovalness, but maybe also due to ham fisted tightening of the hose clamp. Thought I'd do it whilst I was in the area to save time later, though you shouldn't go changing things that aren't broken so that will probably come back to get me. Fresh bit of coolant. Fresh bit of oil. Just need the tank on now and a few more plastic bits. And maybe a wash, the old dead flies have started to grow. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Good job I decided to overhaul the forks whilst they were off the bike. This one had got water into it. I replaced the oil 2022 but it had turned into emulsion. No sign of any oil leaking so the forks looked fine. But same again, some clot had used a screwdriver to install the seal so it was in a poor state. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Davey Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 1 hour ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said: Good job I decided to overhaul the forks whilst they were off the bike. This one had got water into it. I replaced the oil 2022 but it had turned into emulsion. No sign of any oil leaking so the forks looked fine. But same again, some clot had used a screwdriver to install the seal so it was in a poor state. That's got to be so satisfying.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 5 hours ago, Simon Davey said: That's got to be so satisfying.... What was particularly satisfying was getting the head bearing back together and reconnecting all the loom connections that have to be stripped off....and then finding it fired first time with all the electrics working. But yes....very glad I decided to overhaul the forks whilst they are off because externally there was no sign of a problem. If I'd have left them that side would have been damaged by the water. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Ahhhh the good old Haynes manual book for reference MB. so your forks were working on the jelly for damping and not the fluid, the jelly was holding what fluid as already in (like grease) ready to turn it more so. after that they will be working well but will they be very soft, wonder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 (edited) 53 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said: Ahhhh the good old Haynes manual book for reference MB. so your forks were working on the jelly for damping and not the fluid, the jelly was holding what fluid as already in (like grease) ready to turn it more so. after that they will be working well but will they be very soft, wonder... I am old school - the first thing I do when I buy anything is to get the Haynes for it. Most of the time I take things to bits and then read the manual. One of my Bobber friends recently found out the hard way that you really should read the manual first. He dismantled his TPS and then read the bit that said DO NOT DISMANTLE THE TPS. It has a factory set spring internally that cannot be replaced once dismantled. It cost him a lot of money to put that right. ($2,200)! I find it makes a handy checklist to spot the bits left over before you have put it all back together again. I have a long shelf of Haynes which are mostly oil stained and grubby. But there are a lot of good memories and occasional bloodstains in them. Edited February 29 by Mississippi Bullfrog 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geofferz Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Moved it to my girlfriend's communal cycle store in her apartment block. Let's hope no one complainans! Or steals it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 What was I saying about not reading the manual.....its usually the bits left over which cause me to check. In this case it was the bit not left over. I rebuilt the front end and found the steering lock was out of line. Much headscratching later I realised I hadn't measured the new head bearings. They were slightly deeper. So having meticulously laid out all the bits that came off....and then refitted in reverse order.....there was a spacer that I should have omitted. And yes, the manual does show that. So, second time round 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throttled Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Not the bike, the sat nav. Got it updated, which takes 3 hours. Plus, I worked out why it could not find many addresses, as it had defaulted to searching local area only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfrowne Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 The Duke is back in business, nearly. It's off the stand anyway. Just need to check the oil level and run it a bit to let the coolant sort itself out. By the book you should crack the bleed valve on the rad, but it's got a thick coat of factory paint all over it so I don't think anyone has ever touched it and I'm not going to either. Booked in at the dealer(!) next week because apparently it has the "akra map" despite having the standard can on it. I'm trying to get the ECU flashed (by non dealer) but the guy can only work off a standard map. It's a bit via the back door because they aren't meant to be reprogrammable, so it's a bit of a hack. He noticed some of the values were off and it normally means it's had the dealer option akrapovich can and map. Anyway. I've got to get the dealer to flash it to standard then send it back to the guy. So far I haven't paid him anything and he has insisted I don't pay him for it being sent back to me, and that was a few weeks ago. He must be used to faffing about. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideWithStyles Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 the reason of the akra map is a bit extra fuelling used as the std is toon lean to get pass EU bull shitterry . so if your bike is a bit snatchy and hot running throughout the rev range and your happy with dealer spec service then keep to it, if you guy can map for your bike as individual with its aftermarket parts too (ie with a rolling road full custome map them id do that over the dealer especially if toy have to pay for the dealer to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackholesun Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 Wouldn't start this morning bloody thing although now I'm wondering whether I mistakingly flicked the kill switch...was dark and I was rushing about as was gonna be late....pulled the old bicycle out to get me to work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe85 Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Fitted the SC Project Exhaust. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Davey Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 13 minutes ago, Joe85 said: Fitted the SC Project Exhaust. Flippin' 'eck, that's sweet. Not sure I'd trust myself to go near it, from fear of smudging that shine. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, Joe85 said: Fitted the SC Project Exhaust. That's a belting exhaust note. They've done a good job with that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe85 Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, Simon Davey said: Flippin' 'eck, that's sweet. Not sure I'd trust myself to go near it, from fear of smudging that shine. I put a PPF film on all the painted parts and head light. (And it’s just been cleaned). Taking it back to the installer tomorrow because some areas haven’t taken too well. Unfortunately the PPF is printed in sections for each pa el, rather than being a ‘wrap’, which is what I’d have preferred. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Davey Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, Joe85 said: I put a PPF film on all the painted parts and head light. (And it’s just been cleaned). Taking it back to the installer tomorrow because some areas haven’t taken too well. Unfortunately the PPF is printed in sections for each pa el, rather than being a ‘wrap’, which is what I’d have preferred. I don't blame you, that's a gorgeous machine. Hope it serves you well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonio Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 6 hours ago, Joe85 said: Fitted the SC Project Exhaust. That made me weep a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi Bullfrog Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 11 hours ago, bonio said: That made me weep a bit. Which end? 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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